We marvel at the amazing hairstyles, hats, handbags, and clothes (designed by Marcel Rochas) in Jacques Becker’s 1945 film Falbalas, set in a Paris couture house. See links below.

Jacques Becker (director), Marcel Rochas (gowns), Falbalas (1945): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0035853/ 

Marcel Rochas: https://www.instagram.com/rochasofficial/ and https://rochas.com/en/in-the-eyes-of-marcel/ 

Violette Leduc, ‘Cette oeuvre d’art fugitive: Une Vitrine’, Pour Elle (1 January 1942): https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k4226919w/f9.item (about Annie Beaumel)

Alexander Fury, ‘The Fascinating Woman behind Hermès’ Window Displays’, AnOther (9 November 2017): https://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/10351/the-fascinating-woman-behind-hermes-window-displays (about Annie Beaumel’s ‘pupil’ Leïla Menchari)

Recueil. “Falbalas” film de Jacques Becker (1945): https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/btv1b10516145p 

Marie Claire (15 March 1944): https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k4701341r/f1.image (cover with hat by Gabrielle)

Josée de Luca (director), Alex et Marie (1993) – short film about the hairstylist Alex Archambault who also was behind Simone Signoret’s hairstyle in Jacques Beckers’ ‘Casque d’or’ (1952)

Paul Thomas Anderson (director), Mark Bridges (costume design), Phantom Thread (2017): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt5776858/

Bande à part

132: Falbalas

We discuss the problematics of Mahogany - the 1975 Diana Ross star vehicle that combines fashion, politics and melodrama. See links below.

Berry Gordon (director), Diana Ross (costume design), Susan Gertsman (wardrobe coordinator: Ms Ross), Jay Hurley (costumer), Annalisa Nasalli-Rocca (wardrobe supervisor), Mahogany (1975): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0073335/ 

Richard Dyer, ‘Diana Ross’, Marxism Today (June 1982): http://banmarchive.org.uk/collections/mt/pdf/82_06_36a.pdf 

Success: Richard Dyer on Diana Ross [and Beyond] (1982/2016): https://vimeo.com/150268022 

Oybò Untuned Socks: https://www.oybo.it/

134: Mahogany

We discuss the beautiful exhibition of photographs by James Barnor at the Serpentine Gallery in London. See links below.

And ... we are now on Patreon! Check out our page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast 

‘James Barnor: Accra/London – A Retrospective’, Serpentine Gallery, London (19 May – 24 October 2021): https://www.serpentinegalleries.org/whats-on/james-barnor/ 

‘Portraits of the Future: A Celebration of James Barnor’ (31 March 2021): https://youtu.be/AqhWdoMOWTQ  

‘James Barnor: Ghanaian Modernist’, Bristol Museum & Art Gallery (18 May – 31 October 2021): https://www.bristolmuseums.org.uk/bristol-museum-and-art-gallery/whats-on/bristol-photo-festival-james-barnor-ghanaian-modernist/ 

Autograph, ‘James Barnor: Ever Young’ (12 June 2020): https://autograph.org.uk/blog/james-barnor-ever-young-newspaper/ (free download of Autograph’s James Barnor exhibition newspaper)

‘Ever Young: James Barnor’, Autograph (2010): https://vimeo.com/50701534 

‘Drum Magazine’, South African History Online (not dated): https://www.sahistory.org.za/article/drum-magazine      

Maria Stepanova (translated by Sasha Dugdale), ‘In Memory of Memory’, Fitzcarraldo Editions (2021)

Dan Hancox, ‘Inner City Pressure: The Story of Grime’, Harper Collins (2019): https://harpercollins.co.uk/products/inner-city-pressure-the-story-of-grime-dan-hancox 

Isaac Mirahi, ‘I.M.’, Flatiron Books (2020): https://us.macmillan.com/books/9781250077820

142: James Barnor

We talk about Rebecca’s visit to the wonderful ‘Drawing on Style’ fashion illustration exhibition curated by Gray M.C.A. at Cromwell Place in London. See links below.

And ... we are now on Patreon! Have a look at our page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast 


‘Drawing on Style’, hosted by Gray M.C.A, Wing Gallery (16 – 26 September 2021):
https://cromwellplace.com/whats-on/drawing-on-style 

Gray M.C.A., Bath: https://graymca.com/ 

Poppy Waddilove: https://poppywaddilove.com/

Frida Wannerberger: https://www.fridawannerberger.com/ 

Richard Haines: https://www.instagram.com/richard_haines/ 

Victoria Thorne: https://www.instagram.com/victoriathorne/ 

Jimmie Henslee: https://www.instagram.com/hensleejimmie/ 

L Gazette du Bon Ton and other French fashion magazines: https://gallica.bnf.fr/html/und/presse-et-revues/presse-de-mode?mode=desktop 

ProQuest Historical Newspapers – Black Newspapers: https://about.proquest.com/en/products-services/histnews-bn/

The Afro Archives: https://www.afro.com/archives/ 

Alison Toplis, ‘The Hidden History of the Smock Frock’, Bloomsbury (2021): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/the-hidden-history-of-the-smock-frock-9781350126114/

145: Drawing On Style

We talk about Clint Ramos’ fabulous costume designs for ‘Respect’, the film about Aretha Franklin – played by Jennifer Hudson – and directed by Liesl Tommy. See links below.

And ... we are now on Patreon! Have a look at our page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast 

Thebe Magugu: https://www.instagram.com/thebemagugu/?hl=en and https://www.instagram.com/tv/CUaJESrgo9J/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link 

Liesl Tommy (director), Clint Ramos (costume designer), ‘Respect’ (2021): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt2452150/ 

‘Respect’ microsite: https://www.universalpictures.co.uk/micro/respect 

Erica Gonazles, ‘Aretha Franklin Used Clothing for Protection, to Take Up Space, and to Make Herself Heard’, Harpers Bazaar (13 August 2021): https://www.harpersbazaar.com/culture/film-tv/a37280291/aretha-franklin-respect-costumes/ 

Liam Freeman, ‘Respect Costume Designer Clint Ramos on Aretha Franklin’s soulful style’, Vogue (11 August 2021): https://www.vogue.com/article/respect-costume-designer-clint-ramos-aretha-franklin-style 

Alan Elliott, Sydney Pollack (directors): ‘Amazing Grace’ (1972): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt4935462/ 

ABC News Special, ‘Aretha Franklin Close Up’ (1968): https://youtu.be/toUteDkwcb0 

Aretha Franklin, ‘Don't Play That Song’, Live on the Cliff Richard Show (1970): https://youtu.be/EtTn5aLXZZg 

Aretha Franklin at Julien’s Auctions: https://www.julienslive.com/search?key=aretha%20franklin

146: Aretha

We talk about the Brixton films of Clovis Salmon, aka Sam the Wheels, celebrated at a recent event which included a filmed portrait of ‘Super Sam’ by Sandi Hudson-Francis. See links below.

And ... we are on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast 


Sam The Wheels – Local Brixton films 1960-2008: https://www.samthewheels.co.uk/ 

‘Jesus Saves’ film at Mutiny Arts: http://www.mutinyarts.co.uk/jesussaves

‘”I went wherever there was fighting”: how Sam the Wheels filmed Brixton ablaze’, The Guardian (4 October 2021): https://www.theguardian.com/film/2021/oct/04/everything-burn-sam-wheels-filmed-brixton-ablaze-uprisings-black-britain-clovis-salmon 

Sandi Hudson-Francis (director), ‘Super Sam’ (2021): https://www.sandihudsonfrancis.com/film/super-sam-trailer 

198 Contemporary Arts & Learning: https://www.198.org.uk/ 

‘Sam the Wheels - The Great Conflict, Brixton Riots & other films (24 February – 22 April 2017): https://autograph.org.uk/exhibitions/the-great-conflict-brixton-riots-other-films 

‘Sam the Wheels’, The Anthill Social: 
http://theanthillsocial.co.uk/archive/samthewheels/ 

Carol Tulloch, ‘The Birth of Cool: Style Narratives and the African Diaspora’, Bloomsbury (2016): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/birth-of-cool-9781474262873/

147: Sam The Wheels

In our Halloween Special, we learn how magic and fashion combine in Anna Biller’s fabulous technicolour extravaganza ‘The Love Witch’. See links below.

Anna Biller: https://www.lifeofastar.com/index.html 

Anna Biller (director and much else), ‘The Love Witch’ (2016): https://www.lifeofastar.com/lovewitch.html and https://www.imdb.com/title/tt3908142/ 

‘#8 - Anna Biller, Filmmaker of “The Love Witch”, a conversation with Pam Grossman of The Witch Wave (31 January 2018): https://witchwavepodcast.com/episodes/2018/1/31/anna-biller-filmmaker-of-the-love-witch 

Emma Willis (key makeup artist): https://www.instagram.com/emmawillishmu/ 

Jester Puppet: Barry Morse https://www.instagram.com/barry_morse_artist/

Jacques Demy (director), Gitt Magrini (costume design), ‘Peau d’âne’ (1970): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0066207/ 

Laird Borrelli-Persson, ‘The Secret Life of the Arrow Collar Man, an Early 20th-Century Sex Symbol’, Vogue (12 June 2017): https://www.vogue.com/article/pride-2017-leyendecker-arrow-collar-man-sex-symbol 

Rains: https://www.uk.rains.com/collections/bags

150: Love Witch

We talk about the amazing costume designer Sandy Powell who recently talked about her work at the Victoria & Albert Museum. See links below.

We’d also love you to check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast 

You Must Remember This, ‘Gossip Girls: Louella Parsons and Hedda Hopper (The Queer, Female Film Producer You’ve Never Heard Of, Episode 5)’, (31 May 2021): http://www.youmustrememberthispodcast.com/episodes/2021/5/5/gossip-girls-queer-film-producer-5 

Walter Lang (director), Travis Banton (Miss Lombard’s gowns), Brymer (other gowns), ‘Love Before Breakfast’ (1936): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0027908/ 

Gregory La Cava (director), Travis Banton (Miss Lombard’s gowns), Brymer (other gowns), ‘My Man Godfrey’ (1936): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0028010/ 

Richard Dyer, ‘White’, Routledge (2017, first published 1997): https://www.routledge.com/White-Twentieth-Anniversary-Edition/Dyer/p/book/9781138683044 

Past event: ‘Online Talk: Sandy Powell in Conversation’, Victoria & Albert Museum (7 November 2021): https://www.vam.ac.uk/event/awz4mQnapkN/online-talk-sandy-powell-in-conversation 

Sandy Powell: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0694309/ 

Sandy Powell’s Autograph Suit auctioned at Phillips in 2020: https://www.phillips.com/detail/sandy-powell/UK090320/1 

The Female Lead: https://www.thefemalelead.com/about-us 

Piere Bourdieu, Yvette Delsaut, ‘Le couturier et sa griffe: contribution à une théorie de la magie’, Actes de la Recherche en Siences Sociales (1-1, 1975): https://www.persee.fr/doc/arss_0335-5322_1975_num_1_1_2447 

Colleen Kelsey, ‘Fashioning Sandy Powell’, Interview (18 February 2016): https://www.interviewmagazine.com/film/sandy-powell 

‘Behind the Seams: An interview with Sandy Powell’, podcast episode (7 June 2020): https://www.angelsbehindtheseams.com/podcast/episode0010/ 

‘Emily Blunt on the costumes of “Mary Poppins Returns”’, Variety Artisans (20 December 2018): https://youtu.be/BiYgPfpjSCk 

Julie Miller, ‘How Sandy Powell, Oscar-Winning Costume Designer, Ventured Outside Her Comfort Zone’, Vanity Fair (6 November 2017): https://www.vanityfair.com/hollywood/2017/11/wonderstruck-sandy-powell 

‘The Rake’s Progress: An Introduction’, Glyndebourne (23 August 2010) – shows David Hockney’s designs: https://youtu.be/DxeeWlp4AZ8 

Alex Marshall, ‘Lindsay Kemp, Dancer Who Taught David Bowie, Is Dead at 80’, New York Times (29 August 2018): https://www.nytimes.com/2018/08/29/obituaries/lindsay-kemp-dead.html 

‘Lindsay Kemp Dies at 80’, Gramilano (25 August 2018): https://www.gramilano.com/2018/08/lindsay-kemp-dies-at-80/ 

Kazuo Ono, ‘The Dead Sea’ (1980s): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZUjhQLB0hXY

153: Sandy Powell

We are catching a glimpse of life behind the scenes at Maison Drécoll in Paris in Tony Lekain’s 1923 film ‘On demande un mannequin’. See links below.

Please check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast 

Tony Lekain (director), ‘On demande un mannequin’ (1923): https://www.cinematheque.fr/henri/film/103077-on-demande-un-mannequin-tony-lekain-1923/ and https://www.imdb.com/title/tt16102410/ 

Didier Chappet, ‘Casque d’Or et les Apaches’ (8 January 2018): https://gallica.bnf.fr/blog/08012018/casque-dor-et-les-apaches?mode=desktop 

‘Cinémode par Jean Paul Gaultier’, Cinémathèque Française (6 October 2021 – January 2022): https://www.cinematheque.fr/cycle/exposition-cinemode-par-jean-paul-611.html 

Birgit Haase and Adelheid Rasche, ‘Christoph Drecoll: Rediscovering the Viennese Worth’, Costume, Volume 53, Issue 2 (2019): https://www.euppublishing.com/doi/full/10.3366/cost.2019.0120 

Images of Maison Drecoll: https://bibliotheques-specialisees.paris.fr/ark:/73873/pf0001614300.locale and https://bibliotheques-specialisees.paris.fr/ark:/73873/pf0001680232.locale and https://bibliotheques-specialisees.paris.fr/ark:/73873/pf0001615180.locale

Julien Duvivier (director), Gerlaur / Marthe Pinchaud (costume design), Au Bonheur des Dames (1930): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0020656/ 

John Julius Norwich (ed), The Duff Cooper Diaries: 1915-1951, Weidenfeld & Nicholson (2006): https://www.weidenfeldandnicolson.co.uk/titles/john-julius-norwich/the-duff-cooper-diaries/9780753821053/ 

Hebe (née Constance Irene Vesselier, later Mrs Kingsland): https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/person/mp123322/hebe-ne-constance-irene-vesselier-later-mrs-kingsland

Eve And Everybody’s Film Review: http://bufvc.ac.uk/newsonscreen/search/index.php/series/80 

Jenny Hammerton, ‘For Ladies Only? Eve’s Film Review: Pathe Cinemagazine 1921-33’, Projection Box (2001)

Perspex Samples: https://www.hindleys.com/perspex-samples.html 

Christmas Trees, Cox & Cox: https://www.coxandcox.co.uk/christmas/christmas-trees/

154: Mannequin

We discuss our beloved Jean Paul Gaultier’s obsession with the 1945 film ‘Falbalas’ and why it led him into fashion design. See links below.

Don’t forget to check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast

The Courtauld Gallery: https://courtauld.ac.uk/gallery/

Mitchell Leisen (director), Travis Banton (costumes), 'Hands Across the Table' (1935): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0026452/

‘Dialogue avec Jean Paul Gaultier’, Cinémathèque Française (6 October 2021 – 16 January 2022): https://www.cinematheque.fr/video/1711.html 

Jean Paul Gaultier, Last Couture Show, Théâtre du Châtelet, Paris, 22 January 2020, NOWFASHION (uploaded 24 January 2020): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYDyi-B1FuU 

Jacques Becker (director), Marcel Rochas (gowns), Falbalas (1945): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0035853/ 

Paul Devine, ‘Jacques Becker’s Falbalas getting Blu-Ray Release’, The Peoples Movies (27 September 2021): https://thepeoplesmovies.com/2021/09/jacques-beckers-falbalas-getting-blu-ray-release/ 

See also our previous episode (132) about Falbalas: https://soundcloud.com/bande-a-part-rb/132-falbalas

155: Gaultier's Falbalas

We talk about Lucy Moyse Ferreira’s fascinating, recently launched book ‘Danger in the Path of Chic: Violence in Fashion between the Wars’. See links below.

Don’t forget to check out Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast

Robin Givhan, ‘André Leon Talley became an icon by never losing faith in the glory of fashion’, Washington Post (19 January 2022): https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/2022/01/19/andre-leon-talley-appreciation/

André Leon Talley, ‘A.L.T.: A Memoir’ (Villlard 2003)

André Leon Talley, ‘The Chiffon Trenches: A Memoir’, read by ATM (Penguin Random House 2020): https://www.penguinrandomhouseaudio.com/book/609773/the-chiffon-trenches/ 

‘Helen Levitt: In the Street’, The Photographers’ Gallery, London (15 October 2021 – 13 February 2022): https://thephotographersgallery.org.uk/whats-on/helen-levitt-retrospective 

Lucy Moyse Ferreira, ‘Danger in the Path of Chic: Violence in Fashion between the Wars’ (Bloomsbury Publishing 2021): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/danger-in-the-path-of-chic-9781350126282/

Lucy Moyse Ferreira: https://www.arts.ac.uk/research/ual-staff-researchers/lucy-moyse-ferreira

157: Danger in the Path of Chic

We talk about the powerful and moving Second World War and Holocaust Galleries at the Imperial War Museum. See links below.

Imperial War Museum, London: https://www.iwm.org.uk/visits/iwm-london 
Second World War Galleries: https://www.iwm.org.uk/events/second-world-war-galleries
The Holocaust Galleries: https://www.iwm.org.uk/events/the-holocaust-galleries 
https://www.iwm.org.uk/support-us/donations/second-world-war-and-holocaust-galleries 

Jonathan Freedland, ‘Imperial War Museum Holocaust Galleries review – history’s greatest horror’, The Guardian (11 October 2021): https://www.theguardian.com/culture/2021/oct/11/imperial-war-museum-london-holocaust-gallery-review 

‘The Holocaust Galleries - Imperial War Museum, London’, Casson Mann (2021): https://www.cassonmann.com/projects/holocaust-galleries 

Vikki Hawkins, ‘Displaying marginalised and “hidden” histories at the Imperial War Museum London: The Second World War gallery regeneration project’, War & Society, Volume 39, Issue 3 (2020): https://doi.org/10.1080/07292473.2020.1786895 

Museum of London: https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/west-smithfield/relocation-west-smithfield

160: Museum and Memory

160: Museums and Memory

We talk about the fabulous Gladys Perint Palmer whose fashion drawings were shown in an exhibition curated by Gray MCA. See links below.

‘A fine Line in Fashion: The Art of Gladys Perint Palmer’, Gray MCA, Cromwell Place, London (15-20 February 2022): https://graymca.com/ 

Gray MCA, ‘In the Studio with Gladys Perint Palmer’ (11 September 2021): https://vimeo.com/602673726  

Gladys Perint Palmer: https://gladysperintpalmer.com/ 

Paris in Love (2021): https://youtu.be/CUS8XatG1HY 

The Courtauld, Prints and Drawings: https://courtauld.ac.uk/gallery/the-collection/prints-and-drawings/ 

Charles Baudelaire, ‘The Painter of Modern Life’ (originally published in 1863):
https://www.poetryintranslation.com/PITBR/French/BaudelaireThePainterOfModernLife.php

160: Gladys Perint Palmer

161: Gladys Perint Palmer

While we take a little mid season break let’s revisit our 100th episode about the fabulous clothes and make-up in Powell and Pressburger’s 1948 film ‘The Red Shoes’. See links below.

Michael Powell and Emeric Pressburger (directors), Hein Heckroth (costume design), The Red Shoes (1948): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0040725/

Wardrobe and dresses of Ludmilla Tchérina: Dorothy Edwards
Additional dresses for Ludmilla Tchérina: Carven
Dresses for Moira Shearer: Jacques Fath and Mattli
Make-up artists: George Blackler, Eric Carter, Ernest Gasser

Michael Powell, A Life in Movies: An Autobiography (1986): http://www.powell-pressburger.org/Reviews/Micky/ALIM.html

Hein Heckroth: Film Designer, Deutsches Film Institut, Filmmuseum, Berlin (28 March – 25 August 1991): https://www.dff.film/ausstellung/hein-heckroth-film-designer/ and http://www.shop-filmmuseum.de/Katalog-Hein-Heckroth-Film-Designer

Villa Léopolda: https://www.pop.culture.gouv.fr/notice/memoire/APGLT03800

Matthew Bourne, The Red Shoes: https://new-adventures.net/the-red-shoes#overview

Douglas Keeve (director), Unzipped (1995): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0114805/

162 (Repost): The Red Shoes

Beatrice takes Rebecca through every stage necessary in turning an item of clothing into a museum object.  See links below.

https://www.rotring.com/ 

Emily Spivack, ‘A History of Sequins from King Tut to the King of Pop’, Smithsonian Magazine (28 December 2012): https://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/a-history-of-sequins-from-king-tut-to-the-king-of-pop-8035/ 

Collections Trust, ‘Spectrum-related resources’: https://collectionstrust.org.uk/spectrum-resources/ 

Collections Trust ‘Standards in the museum care of costume and textile collections’: https://collectionstrust.org.uk/resource/standards-in-the-museum-care-of-costume-and-textile-collections/ 

Western Australian Museum, ‘Freezing Objects’ (30 June 2017): https://youtu.be/JSFmC6-K5nA 

Museum of London, ‘How to Store a Wedding Dress’ (16 September 2013): https://youtu.be/eHcQug5ZJd4

163: Behind the scenes at the museum

163: Museum behind the scenes

We talk about the joys of archival research and marvel at Mervyn Le Roy’s Depression-era musical ‘Gold Diggers of 1933’. 

Westminster Archives: https://www.westminster.gov.uk/leisure-libraries-and-community/westminster-archives 

Historical Directories of England and Wales: http://specialcollections.le.ac.uk/digital/collection/p16445coll4 and http://specialcollections.le.ac.uk/digital/collection/p16445coll4/custom/background 

Gaston and Andrée Exerciser: http://www.kraveantiques.co.uk/products/Gaston-Andree-Exerciser-1897.html 

Rogue Fitness, ‘The Rogue Legends Series – Chapter 1: Eugen Sandow / 8K’ (25 May 2017): https://youtu.be/S-nPD2__e0E 

Mervyn LeRoy (director), Orry-Kelly (gowns), ‘Gold Diggers of 1933’ (1933): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0024069/ 

Orry-Kelly, ‘Women I’ve Undressed: The Fabulous Life and Times of a Legendary Hollywood Designer’, Allen & Unwin (2016): https://atlantic-books.co.uk/book/women-ive-undressed/ 

Mordaunt Hall, ‘Warren William, Aline MacMahon and Guy Kibbee in a Musical Conception of “The Gold Diggers”’, New York Times (8 June 1933): https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1933/06/08/105141704.html 

Library of Congress, Farm Security Administration/Office of War Information Black-and-White Negatives: https://www.loc.gov/collections/fsa-owi-black-and-white-negatives/about-this-collection/ 

Paul Dickson and Thomas B. Allen, ‘Marching on History’, Smithsonian Magazine (February 2003): https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/marching-on-history-75797769/

164: Gold Diggers of 1933

In our season finale we discuss Ralph Lauren’s special edition Polo collection conceived in collaboration with Spelman and Morehouse colleges, and play another round of our favourite game 'If I was a …', this time focused on fashion illustration. New season premiere: 22 May. See links below.

Robin Givhan, ‘The Battle of Versailles’ (2015): https://us.macmillan.com/books/9781250052902/thebattleofversailles 

Robin Givhan, ‘Ralph Lauren revises his vision of the American Dream, inspired by the style of HBCUs’, The Washington Post (15 March 2022): https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/2022/03/15/ralph-lauren-morehouse-spelman-hbcu/ 

The Crisis, Modernist Journals Project: https://modjourn.org/journal/crisis/ 

https://www.instagram.com/anfeargorm4/ 

Bea Feitler after Joe Eula, ‘Lauren Bacall and the Boys’, 1968: https://www.si.edu/object/lauren-bacall-and-boys%3Anpg_NPG.2007.161 

Francesca Gavin, ‘The Pioneering Female Art Director You've Never Heard Of’, AnOther (8 September 2017): https://www.anothermag.com/art-photography/10134/the-pioneering-female-art-director-youve-never-heard-of 

Joe Eula (director), The Paris Collections: Fall Fashion Preview (1968): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1596760/ 

‘Lauren Bacall: The Look’, FIT, New York (3 March 2015 – 4 April 2015): https://exhibitions.fitnyc.edu/lauren-bacall/exhibition/#grid-page 

Eric (Carl Erickson), Evening blouse, Hattie Carnegie, for Vogue (1943)

165: If I was a Fashion Illustration

We catch up with all that’s been happening - and discuss Ukrainian milliner Ruslan Baginskiy and Elizabeth Wilson’s new book 'Unfolding the Past'. See links below.

We’d love you to support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast


Unravelling Threads: Tracing and Transforming Violence and Trauma through Fashion, Conference, The Courtauld Institute / LCF (6-7 May 2022): https://courtauld.ac.uk/whats-on/unravelling-threads-tracing-and-transforming-violence-and-trauma-though-fashion/ 

Documenting Fashion Blog: https://sites.courtauld.ac.uk/documentingfashion/ 

Ruslan Blaginsky: https://www.instagram.com/ruslanbaginskiy_hats/ and https://ruslanbaginskiy.com/ 

Elizabeth Wilson, ‘Unfolding the Past’, Bloomsbury (2022): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/unfolding-the-past-9781350232617/ 

‘Dressed: 7 Women – 200 Years of Fashion’, MK&G, Hamburg (25 February – 28 August 2022): https://www.mkg-hamburg.de/en/exhibitions/dressed 

Charlie Porter,’What Artists Wear’, Penguin (2021): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/314/314590/what-artists-wear/9780141991252.html

166: Catching Up

We discuss Jean Harlow’s amazing star persona, as seen in ‘Platinum Blonde’ and ‘Dinner at Eight’.  See links below.

We’d love you to support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast

Frank Capra (director), Edward Stevenson (costume design), ‘Platinum Blonde’ (1931): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0022268/ 

George Cukor (director), Adrian (gowns), ‘Dinner at Eight’ (1933): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0023948/ 

Robert Mack (director), ‘Come to Dinner’ (1934)
https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x7p71yv 

Richard Dyer, ‘White’ (2017, first published 1997): https://www.routledge.com/White-Twentieth-Anniversary-Edition/Dyer/p/book/9781138683044# 

George Hurrell, Jean Harlow (1934): https://lagunaartmuseum.org/artwork/jean-harlow/ 

Brassaï (Gyula Halász), La Môme Bijou, Bar de la Lune, Montmartre (1932) : https://www.moma.org/collection/works/58840 

RuPaul’s Drag Race’s 28 Days of Drag: 2/2 Snatch Game Sunday (2014): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LMA5MHvA3zA

167: Jean Harlow

We talk about an inspiring discussion between Priya Ahluwalia, Es Devlin and Gaika, chaired by Daze Aghaji about ‘creativity in a time of crisis’. See links below.

Please check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast

‘Imagining the Impossible: Creativity in a time of Crisis’, Barbican (16 June 2022): https://www.barbican.org.uk/whats-on/2022/event/imagining-the-impossible-creativity-in-a-time-of-crisis

Our Time on Earth, The Curve, Barbican (5 May - 29 Aug 2022): https://www.barbican.org.uk/whats-on/2022/event/our-time-on-earth

https://ahluwalia.world/

https://esdevlin.com/

https://gaika.warp.net/

https://www.instagram.com/dazeaghaji

168: Imagining the Impossible

We had to take a little break this week so are offering a repost of our musings about the allure of pleats, the history of pleating, and our favourite designer examples of pleats. See links below.

Please check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast

Vogue, Sacai, Resort 2019: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2019/sacai/slideshow/collection#34 

Lassner Plissee, History of Plissee (in German): http://lassner-plissee.de/Geschichte/geschichte.html 

Business of Fashion, 'Inside Chanel's Subsidiary, Lognon, Pleater' (2015): www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_GU0uOgNrc 

Refinery29, 'How a Dior Dress is Made' (2015): www.youtube.com/watch?v=FT1Fc92-eFY 

The Hunt Museum, Sybil Connolly, online exhibition (2018): www.huntmuseum.com/explore-the-exhibition/ 

Elizabeth Kutesko, 'How Can We Decolonise Fashion History? A Case Study: the Guarani-Kaiowá, Mato Grosso do Sul, Brazil', Research Forum, Courtauld Institute (8/2/2019): https://courtauld.ac.uk/whats-on/how-can-we-decolonise-fashion-history-a-case-study-the-guarani-kaiowa-mato-grosso-do-sul-brazil/ 

Elizabeth Kutesko, 'Fashioning Brazil
Globalization and the Representation of Brazilian Dress in National Geographic' (2018): www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashioning-b…-9781350026605/

169 (Repost): Pleats

We discuss Visible Mending and Unzipped, the 1995 documentary about Isaac Mizrahi by Douglas Keeve. See links below.

Visible Mending
https://humantextilewellness.wordpress.com/
http://celiapym.com/
https://tomofholland.com/
http://www.woolfiller.com/
http://www.addresspublications.com/mended-scars/
http://goldenjoinery.com/#workshop

Douglas Keeve (director), Unzipped (1995): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0114805/ and https://youtu.be/qNmJKsGylaY 

Ernst Lubitsch (director), I don’t want to be a man (1918): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0010281/ and https://youtu.be/bCmwaXkf8Xg

Charles Bryant (director), Natacha Rambova (costume design), Salomé (1923): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0013571/ and https://youtu.be/Pt0DSbnf7q8

Visible Mending & Unzipped

We discuss the costumes of The Deuce (HBO 2017).

The Deuce (2017)  http://www.imdb.com/title/tt4998350/
Anna Terrazas  hhttp://www.imdb.com/name/nm2607465/
Taxi Driver (1976)http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0075314/
The Panic in Needle Park (1971) http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0067549/
Katzelmacher (1969) http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0064536/

https://www.nytimes.com/2017/10/27/style/sex-worker-prostitute-fashion-the-deuce-blade-runner.html

https://fashionista.com/2017/09/hbo-the-deuce-costumes

Dissecting The Deuce

We discuss Kim Jones’ finale at Louis Vuitton, the proliferation of plastic and nylon raincoats in the menswear shows, and Bonnie Cashin’s inventive bag designs.

Wear and Tear by Tracy Tynan: http://www.simonandschuster.com/books/Wear-and-Tear/Tracy-Tynan/9781501123696
Kim Jones Instagram: @mrkimjones
Dries Van Noten instagram: @driesvannoten
See all the shows on Vogue’s Runway App
bonniecashin.org

Plastic Macs & Tote Bags

We discuss the recent Vivienne Westwood film and ponder what we want from fashion documentaries.

Lorna Tucker, Westwood: Punk, Icon, Activist (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt4378628/

Gillian Greenwood, Vivienne Westwood (1990, episode of The South Bank Show): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1574390/

Douglas Keeve, Unzipped (1995): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0114805/

Vivienne Westwood & Fashion Documentaries

We discuss the mesmerising exhibition of Frances Upritchard’s work at the Barbican, and enjoy the multi-layered references in Simon Grennan’s book Drawing in Drag by Marie Duval. See links below.

Francis Upritchard: Wetwang Slack (2018): http://sites.barbican.org.uk/wetwangslack/ 

Francis Upritchard at Kate Macgarry: http://www.katemacgarry.com/artists/francis-upritchard/ 

Hammer Projects: Francis Upritchard (2014-2015): https://hammer.ucla.edu/exhibitions/2014/hammer-projects-francis-upritchard/ 

Mackenzie Stevens, An “Unruly Material: Balata in Francis Upritchard’s Practice (2014): https://hammer.ucla.edu/blog/2014/12/an-unruly-material-balata-in-francis-upritchards-practice/ 

Tessa Giblin, The Borrowings of Francis Upritchard (2017): https://christchurchartgallery.org.nz/bulletin/187/the-borrowings-of-francis-upritchard 

In Conversation: Peter Pilotto (2016): https://www.matchesfashion.com/womens/the-style-report/2016/11/the-statement-issue/in-conversation-peter-pilotto-amex-francis-upritchard-collaboration 

Fenberger House: https://www.fenbergerhouse.com/

The Pruitt-Igoe Myth (2011): http://www.pruitt-igoe.com/

Simon Grennan, Drawing in Drag by Marie Duval (2018): https://www.bookworks.org.uk/node/1943

The Marie Duval Archive: http://www.marieduval.org/

Le Diable à Paris (about second edition): https://blog.paris-libris.com/gavarni-granville-le-diable-a-paris-paris-et-les-parisiens-a-la-plume-et-au-crayon-2/

Francis Upritchard & Marie Duval

We discuss the current Yves Saint Laurent exhibition in Paris and the representation of Eastern cultures in fashion, and consider the extravagant vision of Busby Berkeley films from the 1930s.  See links below ...

Les Nadar, une légende photographique, Bibliothèque Nationale de France, Paris (16 October 2018 - 3 February 2019):
http://www.bnf.fr/m/fr/m_actualites/m_anx_expos/f.nadar_legende_photographique.html 

L'Asie rêvée d'Yves Saint Laurent, Musée Yves Saint Laurent, Paris (2 October 2018 - 27 January 2019): https://museeyslparis.com/expositions/asie-revee-yves-saint-laurent

Mélody Thomas, ‘Expo: Ce que l’Asie Rêvée d’Yves Saint Laurent nous dit de la mode actuelle’, Marie Claire (14 October 2018): https://www.marieclaire.fr/exposition-l-asie-revee-d-yves-saint-laurent,1284384.asp 

Susie Lau, ‘Saint Laurent’s Dreams of the Orient: “When you know a culture, you can’t make mistakes’, The Guardian (2 October 2018): https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2018/oct/02/saint-laurents-dreams-of-the-orient-when-you-know-a-culture-you-cant-make-mistakes 

Connaissance des Arts, [Avant-Première] ‘L'Asie rêvée d'Yves Saint Laurent’ (24 September 2018): https://youtu.be/4MjGN30QAOs

Télé Matin, ‘Mode – Yves Saint Laurent, voyageur imaginaire’ (27 November 2018):
https://youtu.be/xvq-M1dt7ws

Ray Enright, Busby Berkeley (directors), Dames (1934): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0025028/

Phyllis Rose, Jazz Cleopatra: Josephine Baker in Her Time, Doubleday (1989): https://archive.org/details/jazzcleopatrajos00rose

Yves Saint Laurent & Busby Berkeley

We discuss the fascinating archive of technical menswear at Westminster University. See links below.

Westminster Menswear Archive: https://www.mensweararchive.com/ 

Westminster Menswear Archive database: https://westminster-atom.arkivum.net/index.php/westminster-menswear-archive

Westminster Menswear Archive IG: https://www.instagram.com/menswear_archive/?hl=en

Video about the Westminster Menswear Archive: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lEDoqc2NMgY 

Westminster Menswear Archive - Item 2016.138 - Padded Shooting Jacket: https://westminster-atom.arkivum.net/index.php/2016-138 

Example of Chinese Fighter Pilot High Altitude Partial Pressure Suit: https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/china-air-force-mig-23-fighter-pilot-500884658 

Massimo Osti Archive: https://www.massimoosti.com/the-archive/mission/ 

Gunner Park, The Uncompromising World of Carol Christian Poell, Grailed (19 May 2017): https://www.grailed.com/drycleanonly/carol-christian-poell-master-class

W. David Marx, Ametora: How Japan Saved American Style (Basic Books 2015): https://www.basicbooks.com/titles/w-david-marx/ametora/9780465059737/

Bernard Rudofsky, Are Clothes Modern? An essay on contemporary apparel (Paul Theobald 1947): https://www.moma.org/documents/moma_catalogue_3159_300063439.pdf

Technical Menswear

We talk about the thoughtful documentary about Martin Margiela and our admiration for his wonderful work. See links below.

Reiner Holzemer (director), Martin Margiela: In His Own Words (2019): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt11284244/ and https://www.martinmargielafilm.co.uk/

Margiela, the Hermès Years, Momu, Antwerp (31 March 2017 – 27 August 2017): https://www.momu.be/en/exhibitions/new-entry-2

MARGIELA / GALLIERA, 1989-2009, Palais Galliera (3 March – 15 July 2018): http://www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr/en/exhibitions/margiela/galliera-1989-2009

Martin Margiela: In His Own Words

We talk about Leigh Wannell’s film The Invisible Man and its possible parallels to what is happening in the world right now. See links below.

Leigh Wannell (director), Adam Johansen, Damien Martin, Emily Seresin (costume design), The Invisible Man (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1051906/ and https://www.universalpictures.com/movies/the-invisible-man

Michael Powell director), Polly Peck (dresses), Dickie Richardson (wardrobe), John Tullis of Horrockses (dress), Peeping Tom (1960): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0054167/

Alfred Hitchcock (director), Blackmail (1929): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0019702/

Alfred Hitchcock (director), Harry Kress (wardrobe), North by Northwest (1959): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0053125/

Ralph Ellison, The Invisible Man (first published in 1952): https://www.penguin.co.uk/articles/2016/invisible-man-by-ralph-ellison/

Gordon Parks, Invisible Man (1952): http://www.gordonparksfoundation.org/gordon-parks/photography-archive/invisible-man-1952/artworks?view=slider

The Invisible Man

We talk about Josephine Baker’s performance in the 1935 film ‘Princesse Tam-Tam’ and the Steve McQueen’s 2020 TV series ‘Small Axe’, particularly the wonderful ‘Lovers Rock’ episode. See links below.

Alan Parker (director), Kristi Zea (costume design), Fame (1980): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0080716/ 

Christopher Gore (creator), Nanrose Buchman, Marilyn Matthews and Ellen Mirojnick (costume designers on different episodes), Fame (1982-1987): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0083412/ 

Well, fame costs ....: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tze87LfeOtY 

Edmond T. Gréville (director), Gaston, Philippe and Zanel (costume design), Princesse Tam-Tam (1935): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0026891/ 

Exploring Josephine Baker, Autograph (23 October 2020): https://autograph.org.uk/events/exploring-josephine-baker 

George Cukor (director), Cecil Beaton and Michael Neuwirth (costume design), My Fair Lady (1964): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0058385/ 

Steve McQueen (director), Lisa Duncan, Jacqueline Durran and Sinéad Kidao (costume design on different episodes), Small Axe (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt3464896/ 
and https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episodes/p08vxt33/small-axe 

Supertone Records: http://www.supertonerecords.co.uk/ 

Steve McQueen (director), Lisa Duncan and Jacqueline Durran (costume design), Lovers Rock (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt10551102/ 

Laura U. Marks, The Skin of the Film: Intercultural Cinema, Embodiment, and the Senses (Duke University Press 2000): https://www.sfu.ca/~lmarks/skin/skin.html 

Lauren Cochrane, ‘Well put together’: the style legacy of lovers rock’, The Guardian online (20 November 2020): https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2020/nov/20/well-put-together-the-style-legacy-of-lovers-rock 

K. Austin Collins, ‘The Dance Floor Is Always at the Center of Steve McQueen’s “Lovers Rock”’, Rolling Stone (28 November 2020): https://www.rollingstone.com/movies/movie-reviews/lovers-rock-steve-mcqueen-small-axe-1090869/ 

Wales Bonner, Lovers Rock collection (AW20): https://walesbonner.net/blogs/lovers-rock-aw20 

John Goto, Lovers’ Rock (1977): http://www.johngoto.org.uk/Lovers_Rock/index.htm#45

LoversRock

122: Lovers Rock

We marvel at the costumes and puzzle over the plot line of Jean Epstein’s 1924 silent film ‘Le Lion des Mogols’. See links below.

Nike GO FlyEase: https://news.nike.com/news/nike-go-flyease-hands-free-shoe 

Cornercopia Store: https://cornercopiastore.co.uk/ 

Jean Epstein (director), Boris Bilinsky (costume design), The Lion of the Moguls (1924):
https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0191246/ 

Le Lion de Mogols on the Cinémathèque française website: https://www.cinematheque.fr/henri/film/48393-le-lion-des-mogols-jean-epstein-1924/ 

François Albera, Albatros: Des Russes à Paris, 1919-1929 (Cinémathèque française 1995): http://www.cineressources.net/consultationPdf/web/o000/592.pdf 

Samantha Leroy, Jean Epstein / Fiction / France / 1924 – Autour de Film: https://www.cinematheque.fr/catalogues/restaurations-tirages/film.php?id=48393#autour-du-film 

Michael Organ and René Clémenti-Bilinsky (compiled by), ‘Boris Bilinsky French Metropolis Posters & Montages 1927’ (2016): https://documents.uow.edu.au/~morgan/metrojc.htm 

Adrian Curry, ‘Movie Posters of the Week: “Metropolis” and the posters of Boris Bilinsky’, Mubi, Notebook Column (31 August 2013): https://mubi.com/notebook/posts/movie-poster-of-the-week-metropolis-and-the-posters-of-boris-bilinsky 

Jean Baptiste Vanmour at Rijks Museum, Amsterdam: https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/en/rijksstudio/artists/jean-baptiste-vanmour 

Eugène Delacroix, Death of Sardanapalus (1827): https://www.louvre.fr/en/oeuvre-notices/death-sardanapalus 

Ivan Mosjoukine, National Portrait Gallery, London: https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/person/mp147007/ivan-mosjoukine 

Gert Stienissen, ‘The original Kuleshov experiment’ (2011): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5JTX2DD4qTQ

Le Lion des Mogols

126: Le Lion des Mogols

Rebecca Arnold & Beatrice Behlen discuss fashion - listen to our personal fashion views in our weekly catch up calls.  Rebecca is a fashion historian, Beatrice is curator at the Museum of London.

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