We talk about the work involved in preparing dress and textile objects for a museum collection. See links below.

Dress and textiles at the Museum of London: https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/collections/about-our-collections/what-we-collect/dress-and-textiles 

London’s Fashion Alphabet, Museum of London: https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/museum-london/londons-fashion-alphabet 

Kim Philpotts’ 1980s/90s clothes: https://tinyurl.com/79t5zpzn 

Halima Khanom, ‘What Muslims Wear’, Museum of London (18 March 2016): https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/discover/what-muslims-wear 

Museums and Galleries Commission, ‘An illustrated guide to the care of costume and textile collections’ (2000): https://collectionstrust.org.uk/resource/an-illustrated-guide-to-the-care-of-costume-and-textile-collections/ 

Resources from DATS (Dress & Textile Specialist network) for identifying and cataloguing dress and textiles: https://www.dressandtextilespecialists.org.uk/dats-toolkits/ and https://www.dressandtextilespecialists.org.uk/links/

Bande à part

Collecting Fashion

136: Collecting Fashion

We talk about the mesmerising Jean Dubuffet exhibition at Barbican Art Gallery in London and the wonderful works of mediumistic artist Madge Gill. See links below.

‘Chintz: Cotton in Bloom’, Fashion and Textile Museum, London (18 May – 12 September 2021): https://www.ftmlondon.org/ftm-exhibitions/chintz-cotton-in-bloom/ 

‘Jean Dubuffet: Brutal Beauty’, Barbican Art Gallery, London (17 May 2021 – 22 August 2021): https://www.barbican.org.uk/whats-on/2021/event/jean-dubuffet-brutal-beauty 

Fondation Jean Dubuffet: https://www.dubuffetfondation.com/ 

Audiovisual biography of Dubuffet: https://www.dubuffetfondation.com/savie_videolistplayer.php 

Collection de L’Art Brut, Lausanne: https://www.artbrut.ch/en_GB/exhibition/dubuffet-art-brut 

Madge Gill: http://madgegill.com/ and https://worksby-madgegill.co/ 

Madge Gill, Sans Titre (not dated): https://www.artbrut.ch/en_GB/author/gill-madge 

Dress by Madge Gill at MAAS, Sidney (1940s): https://collection.maas.museum/object/167418 

Madge Gill, Newham Heritage Month (May 2021): https://www.newhamheritagemonth.org/contributors/madge-gill/

139: Dubuffet & Madge Gill

We are catching a glimpse of life behind the scenes at Maison Drécoll in Paris in Tony Lekain’s 1923 film ‘On demande un mannequin’. See links below.

Please check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast 

Tony Lekain (director), ‘On demande un mannequin’ (1923): https://www.cinematheque.fr/henri/film/103077-on-demande-un-mannequin-tony-lekain-1923/ and https://www.imdb.com/title/tt16102410/ 

Didier Chappet, ‘Casque d’Or et les Apaches’ (8 January 2018): https://gallica.bnf.fr/blog/08012018/casque-dor-et-les-apaches?mode=desktop 

‘Cinémode par Jean Paul Gaultier’, Cinémathèque Française (6 October 2021 – January 2022): https://www.cinematheque.fr/cycle/exposition-cinemode-par-jean-paul-611.html 

Birgit Haase and Adelheid Rasche, ‘Christoph Drecoll: Rediscovering the Viennese Worth’, Costume, Volume 53, Issue 2 (2019): https://www.euppublishing.com/doi/full/10.3366/cost.2019.0120 

Images of Maison Drecoll: https://bibliotheques-specialisees.paris.fr/ark:/73873/pf0001614300.locale and https://bibliotheques-specialisees.paris.fr/ark:/73873/pf0001680232.locale and https://bibliotheques-specialisees.paris.fr/ark:/73873/pf0001615180.locale

Julien Duvivier (director), Gerlaur / Marthe Pinchaud (costume design), Au Bonheur des Dames (1930): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0020656/ 

John Julius Norwich (ed), The Duff Cooper Diaries: 1915-1951, Weidenfeld & Nicholson (2006): https://www.weidenfeldandnicolson.co.uk/titles/john-julius-norwich/the-duff-cooper-diaries/9780753821053/ 

Hebe (née Constance Irene Vesselier, later Mrs Kingsland): https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/person/mp123322/hebe-ne-constance-irene-vesselier-later-mrs-kingsland

Eve And Everybody’s Film Review: http://bufvc.ac.uk/newsonscreen/search/index.php/series/80 

Jenny Hammerton, ‘For Ladies Only? Eve’s Film Review: Pathe Cinemagazine 1921-33’, Projection Box (2001)

Perspex Samples: https://www.hindleys.com/perspex-samples.html 

Christmas Trees, Cox & Cox: https://www.coxandcox.co.uk/christmas/christmas-trees/

154: Mannequin

We discuss our beloved Jean Paul Gaultier’s obsession with the 1945 film ‘Falbalas’ and why it led him into fashion design. See links below.

Don’t forget to check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast

The Courtauld Gallery: https://courtauld.ac.uk/gallery/

Mitchell Leisen (director), Travis Banton (costumes), 'Hands Across the Table' (1935): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0026452/

‘Dialogue avec Jean Paul Gaultier’, Cinémathèque Française (6 October 2021 – 16 January 2022): https://www.cinematheque.fr/video/1711.html 

Jean Paul Gaultier, Last Couture Show, Théâtre du Châtelet, Paris, 22 January 2020, NOWFASHION (uploaded 24 January 2020): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYDyi-B1FuU 

Jacques Becker (director), Marcel Rochas (gowns), Falbalas (1945): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0035853/ 

Paul Devine, ‘Jacques Becker’s Falbalas getting Blu-Ray Release’, The Peoples Movies (27 September 2021): https://thepeoplesmovies.com/2021/09/jacques-beckers-falbalas-getting-blu-ray-release/ 

See also our previous episode (132) about Falbalas: https://soundcloud.com/bande-a-part-rb/132-falbalas

155: Gaultier's Falbalas

We talk about the powerful and moving Second World War and Holocaust Galleries at the Imperial War Museum. See links below.

Imperial War Museum, London: https://www.iwm.org.uk/visits/iwm-london 
Second World War Galleries: https://www.iwm.org.uk/events/second-world-war-galleries
The Holocaust Galleries: https://www.iwm.org.uk/events/the-holocaust-galleries 
https://www.iwm.org.uk/support-us/donations/second-world-war-and-holocaust-galleries 

Jonathan Freedland, ‘Imperial War Museum Holocaust Galleries review – history’s greatest horror’, The Guardian (11 October 2021): https://www.theguardian.com/culture/2021/oct/11/imperial-war-museum-london-holocaust-gallery-review 

‘The Holocaust Galleries - Imperial War Museum, London’, Casson Mann (2021): https://www.cassonmann.com/projects/holocaust-galleries 

Vikki Hawkins, ‘Displaying marginalised and “hidden” histories at the Imperial War Museum London: The Second World War gallery regeneration project’, War & Society, Volume 39, Issue 3 (2020): https://doi.org/10.1080/07292473.2020.1786895 

Museum of London: https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/west-smithfield/relocation-west-smithfield

160: Museum and Memory

160: Museums and Memory

We talk about the fabulous Gladys Perint Palmer whose fashion drawings were shown in an exhibition curated by Gray MCA. See links below.

‘A fine Line in Fashion: The Art of Gladys Perint Palmer’, Gray MCA, Cromwell Place, London (15-20 February 2022): https://graymca.com/ 

Gray MCA, ‘In the Studio with Gladys Perint Palmer’ (11 September 2021): https://vimeo.com/602673726  

Gladys Perint Palmer: https://gladysperintpalmer.com/ 

Paris in Love (2021): https://youtu.be/CUS8XatG1HY 

The Courtauld, Prints and Drawings: https://courtauld.ac.uk/gallery/the-collection/prints-and-drawings/ 

Charles Baudelaire, ‘The Painter of Modern Life’ (originally published in 1863):
https://www.poetryintranslation.com/PITBR/French/BaudelaireThePainterOfModernLife.php

160: Gladys Perint Palmer

161: Gladys Perint Palmer

While we take a little mid season break let’s revisit our 100th episode about the fabulous clothes and make-up in Powell and Pressburger’s 1948 film ‘The Red Shoes’. See links below.

Michael Powell and Emeric Pressburger (directors), Hein Heckroth (costume design), The Red Shoes (1948): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0040725/

Wardrobe and dresses of Ludmilla Tchérina: Dorothy Edwards
Additional dresses for Ludmilla Tchérina: Carven
Dresses for Moira Shearer: Jacques Fath and Mattli
Make-up artists: George Blackler, Eric Carter, Ernest Gasser

Michael Powell, A Life in Movies: An Autobiography (1986): http://www.powell-pressburger.org/Reviews/Micky/ALIM.html

Hein Heckroth: Film Designer, Deutsches Film Institut, Filmmuseum, Berlin (28 March – 25 August 1991): https://www.dff.film/ausstellung/hein-heckroth-film-designer/ and http://www.shop-filmmuseum.de/Katalog-Hein-Heckroth-Film-Designer

Villa Léopolda: https://www.pop.culture.gouv.fr/notice/memoire/APGLT03800

Matthew Bourne, The Red Shoes: https://new-adventures.net/the-red-shoes#overview

Douglas Keeve (director), Unzipped (1995): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0114805/

162 (Repost): The Red Shoes

Beatrice takes Rebecca through every stage necessary in turning an item of clothing into a museum object.  See links below.

https://www.rotring.com/ 

Emily Spivack, ‘A History of Sequins from King Tut to the King of Pop’, Smithsonian Magazine (28 December 2012): https://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/a-history-of-sequins-from-king-tut-to-the-king-of-pop-8035/ 

Collections Trust, ‘Spectrum-related resources’: https://collectionstrust.org.uk/spectrum-resources/ 

Collections Trust ‘Standards in the museum care of costume and textile collections’: https://collectionstrust.org.uk/resource/standards-in-the-museum-care-of-costume-and-textile-collections/ 

Western Australian Museum, ‘Freezing Objects’ (30 June 2017): https://youtu.be/JSFmC6-K5nA 

Museum of London, ‘How to Store a Wedding Dress’ (16 September 2013): https://youtu.be/eHcQug5ZJd4

163: Behind the scenes at the museum

163: Museum behind the scenes

We talk about the joys of archival research and marvel at Mervyn Le Roy’s Depression-era musical ‘Gold Diggers of 1933’. 

Westminster Archives: https://www.westminster.gov.uk/leisure-libraries-and-community/westminster-archives 

Historical Directories of England and Wales: http://specialcollections.le.ac.uk/digital/collection/p16445coll4 and http://specialcollections.le.ac.uk/digital/collection/p16445coll4/custom/background 

Gaston and Andrée Exerciser: http://www.kraveantiques.co.uk/products/Gaston-Andree-Exerciser-1897.html 

Rogue Fitness, ‘The Rogue Legends Series – Chapter 1: Eugen Sandow / 8K’ (25 May 2017): https://youtu.be/S-nPD2__e0E 

Mervyn LeRoy (director), Orry-Kelly (gowns), ‘Gold Diggers of 1933’ (1933): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0024069/ 

Orry-Kelly, ‘Women I’ve Undressed: The Fabulous Life and Times of a Legendary Hollywood Designer’, Allen & Unwin (2016): https://atlantic-books.co.uk/book/women-ive-undressed/ 

Mordaunt Hall, ‘Warren William, Aline MacMahon and Guy Kibbee in a Musical Conception of “The Gold Diggers”’, New York Times (8 June 1933): https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1933/06/08/105141704.html 

Library of Congress, Farm Security Administration/Office of War Information Black-and-White Negatives: https://www.loc.gov/collections/fsa-owi-black-and-white-negatives/about-this-collection/ 

Paul Dickson and Thomas B. Allen, ‘Marching on History’, Smithsonian Magazine (February 2003): https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/marching-on-history-75797769/

164: Gold Diggers of 1933

In our season finale we discuss Ralph Lauren’s special edition Polo collection conceived in collaboration with Spelman and Morehouse colleges, and play another round of our favourite game 'If I was a …', this time focused on fashion illustration. New season premiere: 22 May. See links below.

Robin Givhan, ‘The Battle of Versailles’ (2015): https://us.macmillan.com/books/9781250052902/thebattleofversailles 

Robin Givhan, ‘Ralph Lauren revises his vision of the American Dream, inspired by the style of HBCUs’, The Washington Post (15 March 2022): https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/2022/03/15/ralph-lauren-morehouse-spelman-hbcu/ 

The Crisis, Modernist Journals Project: https://modjourn.org/journal/crisis/ 

https://www.instagram.com/anfeargorm4/ 

Bea Feitler after Joe Eula, ‘Lauren Bacall and the Boys’, 1968: https://www.si.edu/object/lauren-bacall-and-boys%3Anpg_NPG.2007.161 

Francesca Gavin, ‘The Pioneering Female Art Director You've Never Heard Of’, AnOther (8 September 2017): https://www.anothermag.com/art-photography/10134/the-pioneering-female-art-director-youve-never-heard-of 

Joe Eula (director), The Paris Collections: Fall Fashion Preview (1968): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1596760/ 

‘Lauren Bacall: The Look’, FIT, New York (3 March 2015 – 4 April 2015): https://exhibitions.fitnyc.edu/lauren-bacall/exhibition/#grid-page 

Eric (Carl Erickson), Evening blouse, Hattie Carnegie, for Vogue (1943)

165: If I was a Fashion Illustration

We catch up with all that’s been happening - and discuss Ukrainian milliner Ruslan Baginskiy and Elizabeth Wilson’s new book 'Unfolding the Past'. See links below.

We’d love you to support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast


Unravelling Threads: Tracing and Transforming Violence and Trauma through Fashion, Conference, The Courtauld Institute / LCF (6-7 May 2022): https://courtauld.ac.uk/whats-on/unravelling-threads-tracing-and-transforming-violence-and-trauma-though-fashion/ 

Documenting Fashion Blog: https://sites.courtauld.ac.uk/documentingfashion/ 

Ruslan Blaginsky: https://www.instagram.com/ruslanbaginskiy_hats/ and https://ruslanbaginskiy.com/ 

Elizabeth Wilson, ‘Unfolding the Past’, Bloomsbury (2022): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/unfolding-the-past-9781350232617/ 

‘Dressed: 7 Women – 200 Years of Fashion’, MK&G, Hamburg (25 February – 28 August 2022): https://www.mkg-hamburg.de/en/exhibitions/dressed 

Charlie Porter,’What Artists Wear’, Penguin (2021): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/314/314590/what-artists-wear/9780141991252.html

166: Catching Up

We discuss Jean Harlow’s amazing star persona, as seen in ‘Platinum Blonde’ and ‘Dinner at Eight’.  See links below.

We’d love you to support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast

Frank Capra (director), Edward Stevenson (costume design), ‘Platinum Blonde’ (1931): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0022268/ 

George Cukor (director), Adrian (gowns), ‘Dinner at Eight’ (1933): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0023948/ 

Robert Mack (director), ‘Come to Dinner’ (1934)
https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x7p71yv 

Richard Dyer, ‘White’ (2017, first published 1997): https://www.routledge.com/White-Twentieth-Anniversary-Edition/Dyer/p/book/9781138683044# 

George Hurrell, Jean Harlow (1934): https://lagunaartmuseum.org/artwork/jean-harlow/ 

Brassaï (Gyula Halász), La Môme Bijou, Bar de la Lune, Montmartre (1932) : https://www.moma.org/collection/works/58840 

RuPaul’s Drag Race’s 28 Days of Drag: 2/2 Snatch Game Sunday (2014): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LMA5MHvA3zA

167: Jean Harlow

We talk about an inspiring discussion between Priya Ahluwalia, Es Devlin and Gaika, chaired by Daze Aghaji about ‘creativity in a time of crisis’. See links below.

Please check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast

‘Imagining the Impossible: Creativity in a time of Crisis’, Barbican (16 June 2022): https://www.barbican.org.uk/whats-on/2022/event/imagining-the-impossible-creativity-in-a-time-of-crisis

Our Time on Earth, The Curve, Barbican (5 May - 29 Aug 2022): https://www.barbican.org.uk/whats-on/2022/event/our-time-on-earth

https://ahluwalia.world/

https://esdevlin.com/

https://gaika.warp.net/

https://www.instagram.com/dazeaghaji

168: Imagining the Impossible

We had to take a little break this week so are offering a repost of our musings about the allure of pleats, the history of pleating, and our favourite designer examples of pleats. See links below.

Please check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast

Vogue, Sacai, Resort 2019: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2019/sacai/slideshow/collection#34 

Lassner Plissee, History of Plissee (in German): http://lassner-plissee.de/Geschichte/geschichte.html 

Business of Fashion, 'Inside Chanel's Subsidiary, Lognon, Pleater' (2015): www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_GU0uOgNrc 

Refinery29, 'How a Dior Dress is Made' (2015): www.youtube.com/watch?v=FT1Fc92-eFY 

The Hunt Museum, Sybil Connolly, online exhibition (2018): www.huntmuseum.com/explore-the-exhibition/ 

Elizabeth Kutesko, 'How Can We Decolonise Fashion History? A Case Study: the Guarani-Kaiowá, Mato Grosso do Sul, Brazil', Research Forum, Courtauld Institute (8/2/2019): https://courtauld.ac.uk/whats-on/how-can-we-decolonise-fashion-history-a-case-study-the-guarani-kaiowa-mato-grosso-do-sul-brazil/ 

Elizabeth Kutesko, 'Fashioning Brazil
Globalization and the Representation of Brazilian Dress in National Geographic' (2018): www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashioning-b…-9781350026605/

169 (Repost): Pleats

We discuss the ways fashion and autobiography intersect - prompted by a visit to see clothes in the Museum of London archive. See links below.

Edwina Ehrman and Amy de la Haye (eds), London Couture: British Luxury 1923-1975 (2015): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/london-couture-british-luxury-1923-1975-131549.html (article on couture clients features Lady Fox and Lady Delamere)

Photos of Myra Alice (née Newton), Lady Fox at NPG: https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/person/mp91931/myra-alice-nee-newton-lady-fox

Lady Fox's skating outfit at Museum of London: https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/discover/ice-skating-fashion-craze

James Fox, White Mischief (1998, first published 1982): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/103/1034644/white-mischief/9780099766711.html

Michael Radford, White Mischief (1988): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0094317/

Lisa Cohen, “Frock Consciousness”: Virginia Woolf, the Open Secret, and the Language of Fashion, Fashion Theory, Vol. 3, Issue 2 (1999): https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.2752/136270499779155032

Lisa Cohen, “VELVET IS VERY IMPORTANT”: Madge Garland and the Work of Fashion, GLQ - A Journal of Lesbian and Gay Studies, Vol. 11, Issue 3 (2005): https://read.dukeupress.edu/glq/article-abstract/11/3/371/9851/VELVET-IS-VERY-IMPORTANT-Madge-Garland-and-the?redirectedFrom=fulltext

Iris Marion Young, Throwing Like a Girl And Other Essays in Feminist Philosophy and Social Theory (1999): http://www.iupress.indiana.edu/product_info.php?products_id=806576

Dress & Autobiography

We discuss Charlie Curran’s beautiful film See Know Evil which documents the life of fashion photographer Davide Sorrenti. See links below.

Charlie Curran (director), See Know Evil (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt8755156/ 

See Know Evil on Charlie Curran’s website: http://www.charliecurran.com/see-know-evil

See Know Evil IG: https://www.instagram.com/see_know_evil/ 

Charlie Curran IG: https://www.instagram.com/myhilism/ 

Rebecca Arnold, Fashion Desire and Anxiety (I.B. Tauris 2001): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashion-desire-and-anxiety-9780857718396/ 

Rebecca Arnold, ‘Heroin Chic’, Fashion Theory, Volume 3, Issue 3 (1999): https://doi.org/10.2752/136270499779151405 

Jake Hall, ‘Reframing the life and work of pioneering 90s photographer Davide Sorrenti’, Dazed (24 January 2019): https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/43027/1/davide-sorrenti-90s-photographer-see-know-evil-film-charles-curran-heroin-chic 

James Cameron (director), Terminator 2: Judgement Day (1991): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0103064/ 

Louise Krasniewicz and Michael Blitz, The Intersexts of Linda Hamilton’s Arms (1996): http://chnm.gmu.edu/aq/arnold/arnoldwebpages/intersext.htm and https://www.academia.edu/11345036/The_Intersexts_of_Linda_Hamiltons_Arms_updated_with_references

See Know Evil

We discuss Basil Dearden’s fascinating 1959 film Sapphire - which shows the intricacies of identity in post war London. See links below.

Basil Dearden (director), Julie Harris (costume design), Sapphire (1959): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0053242/ 

Sapphire on Retrospective’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7HYYhQwYZEE

Sapphire on Reelstreets: https://www.reelstreets.com/films/sapphire/

Josephine Botting, ‘Remembering Julie Harries: costume designer for Bond and Hitchcock’, BFI (2 June 2015): https://www.bfi.org.uk/news-opinion/news-bfi/features/remembering-julie-harris-costume-designer-bond-hitchcock

‘The Look of Austerity’, special issue of Fashion Theory, Volume 21, Issue 4 (2017): https://www.tandfonline.com/toc/rfft20/21/4?nav=tocList

Lynda Nead, ‘”Red Taffeta Under Tweed”: the color of post-war clothes’, Fashion Theory, Volume 21, Issue 4 (2017): https://eprints.bbk.ac.uk/30543/

Roger Mayne, Southam Street: http://www.rogermayne.com/sstreet/southamstreet.html 

Bryan Forbes (director), Beatrice Dawson (costume design), The L-Shaped Room (1962): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0057239/

Sapphire

We discuss our favourite designers, wondering what criteria we should use to decide on our favourite designers ... See links below.

Hans Holbein, Christina of Denmark, Duchess of Milan (National Gallery, London, 1538):
https://www.nationalgallery.org.uk/paintings/hans-holbein-the-younger-christina-of-denmark-duchess-of-milan 

Witt Library: https://courtauld.ac.uk/study/resources/image-libraries/witt-library

Headdress Frames, Museum of London: https://collections.museumoflondon.org.uk/online/search/#!/results?terms=headdress%20frame

Joanna Freedman, A study of female dress worn in England, c.1525-1545: with specific reference to the Lisle Letters, Courtauld Institute of Art Dissertation (1991): https://tinyurl.com/qmk68ft 

Simone Rocha: https://simonerocha.com/

Rebecca Arnold, ‘Vionnet and Classicism’, in Vionnet, Judith Clark Costume (15 March – 16 April 2001): https://judithclarkcostume.com/wp-content/uploads/Judith-Clark-16pp-Vionnet.pdf

Elsa Schiaparelli: https://www.schiaparelli.com/en/21-place-vendome/the-life-of-elsa/

Pierre Balmain, My Years and Seasons (Cassell 1964): https://books.google.co.uk/books/about/My_Years_and_Seasons.html?id=Hv7bAAAAMAAJ 

Louiseboulanger, Evening dress, Metropolitan Museum of Art (1928): https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/83209

Rebecca Arnold, 30-Second Fashion (Ivy Press 2016): https://www.quartoknows.com/books/9781782406679/30-Second-Fashion.html

Jeanne Lanvin: https://www.lanvin.com/fi/maison/jeanne-lanvin/

Jeanne Lanvin, Palais Galliera, Paris (8 March - 23 August 2015): http://www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr/en/exhibitions/jeanne-lanvin

‘Indiscrétions : le New Look 49’, Pierre Balmain, Jacques Fath and Maggy Rouff (1949): https://www.ina.fr/video/AFE85002936/indiscretions-le-new-look-49-video.html

Dans l’atelier de Sonia Rykiel, Archive INA (1969): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hnbc3z40ZsU

‘Helmut Lang: The Searching Stays with You', 032c (19 December 2013): https://032c.com/helmut-lang-the-searching-stay-with-you 

'Romeo Gigli on Photographic Collaborations', AnOther (31 July 2012): https://www.anothermag.com/art-photography/2094/romeo-gigli-on-photographic-collaborations

Maison Margiela, Fall 2012 Couture: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2012-couture/maison-martin-margiela

Jean-Paul Gaultier: https://www.jeanpaulgaultier.com/fr-fr/le-createur/

Katharine Hamnett: https://katharinehamnett.com/

Dries van Noten: https://www.driesvannoten.com/

Our Favourite Favourites

We talk about the thoughtful documentary about Martin Margiela and our admiration for his wonderful work. See links below.

Reiner Holzemer (director), Martin Margiela: In His Own Words (2019): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt11284244/ and https://www.martinmargielafilm.co.uk/

Margiela, the Hermès Years, Momu, Antwerp (31 March 2017 – 27 August 2017): https://www.momu.be/en/exhibitions/new-entry-2

MARGIELA / GALLIERA, 1989-2009, Palais Galliera (3 March – 15 July 2018): http://www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr/en/exhibitions/margiela/galliera-1989-2009

Martin Margiela: In His Own Words

We discuss the list Love Magazine asked Rebecca to make of 10 lesser known designers who have helped to shape fashion. See links below.

Rebecca Arnold, '10 Lesser-Known Fashion Designers Who Have Shaped The Industry', Love (5 May 2020): https://www.thelovemagazine.co.uk/article/10-lesser-known-fashion-designers-who-have-shaped-the-industry

Callot Soeurs: Jessamyn Hatcher and Pari Dukovic, 'Twenty-One Dresses', The New Yorker (23 March 2015): https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2015/03/23/twenty-one-dresses

Lucile: https://www.vogue.com/article/a-scandal-survives-the-story-of-fashion-designer-and-titanic-passenger-lucile

Madeleine Vionnet: https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1936-vionnet-carnival-dress/ 

Claire McCardell: http://fashionmuseum.fitnyc.edu/view/people/asitem/items$0040:6603/0

Geoffrey Beene: https://www.si.edu/object/nmah_360606

Ossie Clark: Osman Ahmed, 'The Fabulous Femininity of Ossie Clark', AnOther (25 August 2016): https://www.anothermag.com/fashion-beauty/8992/the-fabulous-femininity-of-ossie-clark

Stephen Sprouse: https://www.thestephensprousebook.com/

Claude Montana: https://www.vanityfair.com/style/2013/09/claude-montana-king-paris-couture

Romeo Gigli: https://www.encyclopedia.com/people/literature-and-arts/fashion-biographies/romeo-gigli

Miguel Adrover: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/designer/miguel-adrover

Willi Smith: Jenny Comita, 'How will designer Willi Smith be remembered?', W Magazine (28 January 2020): https://www.wmagazine.com/story/willi-smith-street-couture-alexandra-cunningham-cameron/

Sterling Ruby: Luke Leitch, 'Artist Sterling Ruby Turns Fashion Designer, Launches S.R. Studio. LA. CA. at Pitti Uomo', Vogue (14 June 2019): https://www.vogue.com/article/artist-sterling-ruby-turns-fashion-designer-launches-sr-studio-la-ca-at-pitti-uomo

10 Designers

We talk about Virigina Woolf’s 1924 short story ‘The New Dress’ and Lisa Cohen’s article about Woolf’s “frock consciousness”. See links below.

https://www.instagram.com/roisinmurphyofficial/ 

https://bonhomme.fr/#

The New Dress, Excerpt from Viriginia Woolf’s 1927 [sic] short story, by Vestoj Editors: http://vestoj.com/the-new-dress/

The New Dress read by Carolyn Pickles, BBC (21 June 2019): https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p07d4lyy

Lisa Cohen, ‘”Frock Consciousness”: Virginia Woolf, the open secret, and the Language of Fashion’, Fashion Theory, Volume 3, Issue 2 (1999): https://doi.org/10.2752/136270499779155032 

Georg Simmel, ‘Fashion’, American Journal of Sociology, Volume 62, No. 6 (May 1957): https://www.jstor.org/stable/2773129

Lisa Cohen, All We Know: Three Lives (2012): https://wesscholar.wesleyan.edu/englbooks/58/ 

R.S. Koppen, Virginia Woolf: Fashion & Literary Modernity, Edinburgh University Press (2009):
https://edinburghuniversitypress.com/book-virginia-woolf-fashion-and-literary-modernity.html 

Thomas Carlyle, Sartor Resartus (1831): https://www.gutenberg.org/files/1051/1051-h/1051-h.htm

The New Dress

We talk about Leigh Wannell’s film The Invisible Man and its possible parallels to what is happening in the world right now. See links below.

Leigh Wannell (director), Adam Johansen, Damien Martin, Emily Seresin (costume design), The Invisible Man (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1051906/ and https://www.universalpictures.com/movies/the-invisible-man

Michael Powell director), Polly Peck (dresses), Dickie Richardson (wardrobe), John Tullis of Horrockses (dress), Peeping Tom (1960): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0054167/

Alfred Hitchcock (director), Blackmail (1929): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0019702/

Alfred Hitchcock (director), Harry Kress (wardrobe), North by Northwest (1959): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0053125/

Ralph Ellison, The Invisible Man (first published in 1952): https://www.penguin.co.uk/articles/2016/invisible-man-by-ralph-ellison/

Gordon Parks, Invisible Man (1952): http://www.gordonparksfoundation.org/gordon-parks/photography-archive/invisible-man-1952/artworks?view=slider

The Invisible Man

We talk about two films from the early 1930s: Bu Wancang’s Love & Duty and Oscar Micheaux’s Veiled Aristocrats. See links below.

Yumo Archive: https://www.instagram.com/yumo.archive/ 

Bu Wancang (director), Love and Duty (1931): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0192239/

Love & Duty (1931) on bilibili:
https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1aE411V7Bh/?spm_id_from=333.788.videocard.0

Stephanie Horose (Hua Luochen), La symphonie des ombres chinoises (Paris: Editions Madeleine 1932)

Irene Eber and Joan Hill, ‘Luo Chen (1883-1970), a Jewish Author in China’, Nashim: A Journal of Jewish Women’s Studies & Gender Issues, No. 31, (Spring-Fall 2017): https://www.jstor.org/stable/10.2979/nashim.31.1.08 

Patrick Galvan, Ruan Lingyu: Her Life and Career (documentary) (16 October 2019): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I_cDg7wjsas

Richard Meyer, Jin Yan: The Rudolph Valentino of Shanghai (Hong Kong University Press 2009): https://hkupress.hku.hk/pro/318.php

Sam Juliano, ‘Cinema as Archaeology – Bu Wancang’s masterpiece Love and Duty (1931)’, Wonders in the Dark (27 May 2011): https://wondersinthedark.wordpress.com/2011/05/27/cinema-as-archaeology-bu-wancangs-masterpiece-love-and-duty-1931/

Anne Kerlan, ‘Love and Duty (Lian’ai yu yiwu) (1931)’, in Steve Neale, Silent Features: The Development of Silent Feature Films 1914-1934 (University of Exeter Press 2018)

Richard Haines: https://www.instagram.com/richard_haines/

Oscar Micheaux (director), Veiled Aristocrats (1932): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0023655/

Trailer for Veiled Aristocrats on The Criterion Channel: https://www.criterionchannel.com/veiled-aristocrats/videos/veiled-aristocrats-trailer

Charles W. Chesnutt, The House Behind the Cedars (The University of Georgia Press 2000, first published 1900): https://ugapress.org/book/9780820321943/the-house-behind-the-cedars/

Charles Musser, The Films of Oscar Micheaux, The Criterion Channel (2016): https://www.criterionchannel.com/videos/the-films-of-oscar-micheaux

Monica Drake, ‘Oscar Micheaux’, The New York Times (not dated): https://www.nytimes.com/interactive/2019/obituaries/oscar-micheaux-overlooked.html

Oscar Micheaux (1884-1951): Micheaux Film Corporation, Norman Studios Online Museum: http://normanstudios.org/nsdrc/displays/oscar-micheaux/

Douglas Sirk (director), Imitation of Life (1959): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0052918/

Nella Larsen, Passing (2003, first published 1929): https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/books/286575/passing-by-nella-larsen/

Love, Duty & Veiled Aristocrats

We talk about transitioning into autumn - which inspired some exciting new purchases - as well as the Netflix series Greenleaf, particularly Lady May’s wardrobe, and the HBO series Lovecraft Country and its visual references. See links below.

Colourful Standard: https://colorfulstandard.co.uk/ 

AS Colour (the shop in Redchurch Street): https://ascolour.co.uk/ 

Craig Wright (creator), Johnetta Boone (costume design), Greenleaf (2016-20): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt4971144/ 

Michael Patrick Jann (director), Mimi Melgaard (costume design), Drop Dead Gorgeous (1999): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0157503/ 

Matt Ruff, Lovecraft Country (HarperCollins 2016): http://www.bymattruff.com/lovecraft-country/ 

Misha Green (creator), Dayna Pink (costume design), Lovecraft Country (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt6905686/ 

Libby Torres, ‘Lovecraft Country' is packed with historical references and hidden clues. Here's a guide to the ones you may have missed., Insider (1 September 2020): https://www.insider.com/lovecraft-country-historical-references-details-you-missed-2020-8 

Erica Gonzales, Lovecraft Country’s Leti Uses Clothing as “an Armour”, Harper’s Bazaar (24 August 2020): https://www.harpersbazaar.com/culture/film-tv/a33729791/lovecraft-country-costumes/

Gordon Parks, Segregation in the South (1956): http://www.gordonparksfoundation.org/gordon-parks/photography-archive/segregation-in-the-south-1956 

Margaret Bourke-White, The Louisville Flood (1937), Whitney Museum of American Art: https://whitney.org/collection/works/8061 

Amy Sherman-Palladino (creator), Donna Zakowska (costume design), The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel (2017- ): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt5788792/

Peter Farrelly (director), Betsy Heimann (costume design), Green Book (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt6966692/

Back from holiday

Back From Holiday

We talk about two pioneering women: the first female filmmaker Alice Guy-Blaché and the writer, broadcaster, collector, costume designer, dress historian and curator Doris Langley Moore. See links below.

Pamela B. Green (director), Be Natural: The Untold Story of Alice Guy-Blaché (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt3146022/

Marquise Lepage (director), Le Jardin oublié: La vie et l’oeuvre d’Alice Guy Blaché (1996): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0113692/ and https://youtu.be/zli0mysaUeU 

René Boca, ‘Nouvelles Brèves de la Cité: Alice Guy-Blaché, la 1re femme metteur en scene’, La Cité (Paris 1954): https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k9783739x/f25.image 

Men, Women and Clothes (1957): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1375606/ and https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b00gp19b (sadly currently not available on this platform)

Men, Women and Clothes (1957) on YouTube: 
https://youtu.be/6NA_opCjczE - How Fashions Come and Go
https://youtu.be/_n-BgDm55Uk – Sense and Nonsense in Fashion
https://youtu.be/qbG33X2j1L0 - Fashions in Faces and Figures
https://youtu.be/UGBsmyfSAjw - Formal Clothes
https://youtu.be/Hz-BXo7OjKY - Informal Clothes
https://youtu.be/j_ti9kDpzjo - Facing the Elements

Doris Langley Moore, ‘The Beginning of the Collection’, Costume, no. 4, supplement 1 (April 1970): https://doi.org/10.1179/cos.1970.4.Supplement-1.2 

Penelope Byrde, ‘Doris Langley Moore, 1902-1989’, Costume no. 24 (1990): https://doi.org/10.1179/cos.1990.24.1.149 

Thorstein Veblen, The Theory of the Leisure Class: An Economic Study of Institutions (1899)

John Huston (director), Doris Langley Moore (costume design), The African Queen (1951): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0043265/ 

Roger White, ‘Stella Mary Newton’, The Guardian (26 May 2001): https://www.theguardian.com/news/2001/may/26/guardianobituaries.books

Pioneering Women

We talk about the preview event of the online conference Fashion at the Periphery organised by the Chicago Fashion Lyceum where Paul & Kayla Owen and Amanda Harth talked about streetwear in Liverpool and Chicago, respectively. See links below.

Otto Preminger (director), Hope Bryce and May Walding (costume), Bonjour Tristesse (1958): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0051429/ 

Chicago Fashion Lyceum: https://chicagofashionlyceum.com/

Fashion at the Periphery 2020: https://chicagofashionlyceum.com/schedule/

Paul & Kayla Owen: owenstudio.co.uk  

Sole Magazine: https://www.instagram.com/sole_magazine/ 

Laura Davis, ‘Adidas unveils Kirkdale trainers at Laces Out! festival’, Liverpool Echo (11 September 2015): https://www.liverpoolecho.co.uk/whats-on/whats-on-news/adidas-unveils-kirkdale-trainers-laces-10034994 

Runwayaddicts: https://www.runwayaddicts.co/ 

Matt Harvey, ‘The Museum of Streetwear enshrines young Chicago designers (for a weekend)’, Chicago Reader (24 July 2019): https://www.chicagoreader.com/chicago/museum-of-streetwear-runwayaddicts/Content?oid=71911322 

Ron Louis: https://www.instagram.com/ron_louis/ and ‘Ron Louis on His Custom Glacier Force 1 High’s, Virgil Abloh and Ending the Phera Brand’, iLLANOiZe (24 May 2020): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CkzlZjDKsLg 

Justin Mensinger: https://justinmensinger.com/ 

PerryCo. Shoes by Brittney Perry: https://perrycoshoes.com/

Transatlantic Streetwear

We discuss the V&A’s ‘Kimono: From Kyoto to Catwalk’ exhibition and the varied meanings of this fascinating garment. See links below.

Collina Strada: https://collinastrada.com/ 

Ian Kelly, Beau Brummell: The Ultimate Man of Style (2006): https://www.hodder.co.uk/titles/ian-kelly/beau-brummell/9780340836996/ 

Duro Olowu: https://www.duroolowu.com/ 

Arles – Les Rencontres de la Photographie: https://www.rencontres-arles.com/en 

Julien Faure: https://www.instagram.com/julienfaure1864/ 

Les choses de Paul Poiret / vues par Georges Lepape (1911): https://www.vmfa.museum/piction/108734640-160584885/ 

Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk, Victoria & Albert Museum (to 25 October 2020): https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/kimono-kyoto-to-catwalk 

Storey Studio (exhibition designers): https://www.storeystudio.com/project/va/kimono-kyoto-catwalk-exhibition 

Curator Tour led by Anna Jackson, Keeper of the Asian Department:
https://youtu.be/oEf0iFNTVGw
https://youtu.be/hG6UVZexmc8 
https://youtu.be/dvyC_pqYhvw 
https://youtu.be/oz1AzscxHjk
https://youtu.be/OSgNdkcg9To 

Netsuke & Inro, V&A: http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/n/netsuke-inro/ 

Sheila Cliffe, The Social Life of Kimono: Japanese Fashion Past and Present (Bloomsbury 2020): https://www.bloomsbury.com/us/the-social-life-of-kimono-9781350211186/ 

Jennifer Craik, The Face of Fashion (Routledge 2003): https://www.taylorfrancis.com/books/9780203409428 

Kimonos in the Khalili Collections: https://www.khalilicollections.org/all-collections/japanese-kimono/ 

Kitsuke: How to wear kimono (August 2017): https://youtu.be/gVdwYM75oLI 

Wasoukan, How to wear a kimono (September 2020): https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLZyw9a9Ouji03DOIT2SlTUyrDJbKP7hBL 

Ome Kimono Museum, Tokyo: http://www.omekimono.jp/

Kimono

We talk about John Lewis Curthoys' 1941 film ‘Border Weave’, produced by the British Council about the production of woollen textiles in the Scottish Borders, but also about empire, national identity and tradition versus modernity. See links below.

Merel on Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/mereltreasures 

MoMu Antwerp: https://www.momu.be/en/ 

British Council Film Archive: https://film.britishcouncil.org/resources/film-archive 

John Lewis Curthoys (director), Border Weave (1941): https://film.britishcouncil.org/resources/film-archive/border-weave 

John Lewis Curthoys and George Wynn (directors), Their Great Adventure (1948): http://collections-search.bfi.org.uk/web/Details/ChoiceFilmWorks/150057853 

George Wynn: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0943964/ 

Jack Cardiff: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0002153/bio 

Joseph Todd Gordon Macleod: https://www.poetryfoundation.org/poets/joseph-gordon-macleod 

London Cloth Company: http://www.londoncloth.com/ 

David Parkinson, ‘Where to begin with Humphrey Jennings’, BFI (19 August 2019): https://www2.bfi.org.uk/news-opinion/news-bfi/features/where-begin-humphrey-jennings

Border Weave

We discuss Gero von Boehm’s documentary ‘Helmut Newton: The Bad & the Beautiful’ (2020) and our own reactions to Newton’s controversial photographs. See links below.

Gero von Boehm (director), Helmut Newton: The Bad and the Beautiful (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt10370644/ 

Mila Ganeva, ‘Fashion Photography and Women’s Modernity in Weimar Germany: The Case of Yva’, NWSA Journal, Vol. 15, No. 3, Gender and Modernism between the Wars, 1918-1939 (Autumn 2003): https://www.jstor.org/stable/4317007?seq=1 

Hannah Höch, Weltrevolution (1920), Metropolitan Museum of Art: https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/265169 

Hans Bellmer at MoMA: https://www.moma.org/artists/452 

Rebecca Arnold, ‘Fashion, Desire and Anxiety: Image and Morality in the Twentieth Century’, I.B. Tauris (2001): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashion-desire-and-anxiety-9780857718396/ 

Rebecca Arnold, ‘Fashion, Violence and Hyperreality’, in Glenn Adamson and Jane Pavitt (editors), Postmodernism: Style and Subversion, 1970-1990, V&A (2012): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/postmodernism-style-and-subversion-1970-90-hardback-110121.html 

‘Helmut Newton: High Gloss’, Hamiltons, London (21 October 2020 - 8 January 2021): https://www.hamiltonsgallery.com/exhibitions/helmut-newton-high-gloss/overview/ 

Fashion Interpretations, A symposium: https://sites.courtauld.ac.uk/fashioninterpretations/events/

Helmut Newton

We discuss Julien Duvivier’s marvellous 1930 film ‘Au Bonheur des Dames’ based on Émile Zola’s eponymous novel. See links below.

Julien Duvivier (director), Gerlaur / Marthe Pinchaud (costume design), Au Bonheur des Dames (1930): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0020656/ 

Au Bonheur des Dames on Accroche Note: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pA5EqTkz84I  

Émile Zola, Au Bonheur des Dames (The Ladies’ Delight) (first published 1883): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/35360/au-bonheur-des-dames--the-ladies--delight-/9780140447835.html 

Georg Simmel, ‘The Metropolis and Mental Life’ (1903) in Gary Bridge and Sophie Watson, eds. The Blackwell City Reader. Oxford and Malden, MA: Wiley-Blackwell (2002): http://www.esperdy.net/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/Simmel_21.pdf 

Patricia O’Brien, ‘The Kleptomania Diagnosis: Bourgeois Women and Theft in Late Nineteenth-Century France’, Journal of Social History, Vol. 17, No. 1 (Autumn 1983): https://www.jstor.org/stable/pdf/3787239.pdf 

Elaine S. Abelson, ‘The Invention of Kleptomania’, Signs, Vol. 15, No. 1 (Autumn 1989): https://www.freud.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Abelson-The-Invention-of-Kleptomania.pdf

Au Bonheur des Dames

Au Bonheur Des Dames

Bande à part is three years old! We posted our very first episode in January 2018, listen again to celebrate our very first conversation. Hear us discuss Unzipped, Douglas Keeve’s 1995 documentary about the truly wonderful Isaac Mizrahi, and Beatrice’s foray into learning the art of visible mending. See links below.

The Conversations with Jason Campbell & Henrietta Gallina: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/the-conversations/id1328893989 

Emily Spivack, Worn Stories: http://wornstories.com/ 

Heidi Julavits, Leanne Shapton, Sheila Heti, Women in Clothes (2014): www.penguin.co.uk/books/196157/women-in-clothes/9781846148354.html   

Visible Mending:
https://humantextilewellness.wordpress.com/
http://celiapym.com/
https://tomofholland.com/
http://www.woolfiller.com/
http://www.addresspublications.com/mended-scars/
http://goldenjoinery.com/ 

Boro: The Fabric of Life: https://www.boisbuchet.org/exhibitions/boro-the-fabric-of-life/ 

Douglas Keeve (director), Unzipped (1995): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0114805/ and https://youtu.be/qNmJKsGylaY 

Robert J. Flaherty, Nanook of the North (1922): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0013427/ 

Ernst Lubitsch (director), I don’t want to be a man (1918): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0010281/ and https://youtu.be/bCmwaXkf8Xg

Charles Bryant (director), Natacha Rambova (costume design), Salomé (1923): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0013571/ and https://youtu.be/Pt0DSbnf7q8 

Jacques Becker (director), Marcel Rochas (costume design), Falbalas (1945): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0035853/

134 (Repost): Visible Mending & Unzipped

124(Repost): Visible Mending & Unzipped

We marvel at the costumes and puzzle over the plot line of Jean Epstein’s 1924 silent film ‘Le Lion des Mogols’. See links below.

Nike GO FlyEase: https://news.nike.com/news/nike-go-flyease-hands-free-shoe 

Cornercopia Store: https://cornercopiastore.co.uk/ 

Jean Epstein (director), Boris Bilinsky (costume design), The Lion of the Moguls (1924):
https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0191246/ 

Le Lion de Mogols on the Cinémathèque française website: https://www.cinematheque.fr/henri/film/48393-le-lion-des-mogols-jean-epstein-1924/ 

François Albera, Albatros: Des Russes à Paris, 1919-1929 (Cinémathèque française 1995): http://www.cineressources.net/consultationPdf/web/o000/592.pdf 

Samantha Leroy, Jean Epstein / Fiction / France / 1924 – Autour de Film: https://www.cinematheque.fr/catalogues/restaurations-tirages/film.php?id=48393#autour-du-film 

Michael Organ and René Clémenti-Bilinsky (compiled by), ‘Boris Bilinsky French Metropolis Posters & Montages 1927’ (2016): https://documents.uow.edu.au/~morgan/metrojc.htm 

Adrian Curry, ‘Movie Posters of the Week: “Metropolis” and the posters of Boris Bilinsky’, Mubi, Notebook Column (31 August 2013): https://mubi.com/notebook/posts/movie-poster-of-the-week-metropolis-and-the-posters-of-boris-bilinsky 

Jean Baptiste Vanmour at Rijks Museum, Amsterdam: https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/en/rijksstudio/artists/jean-baptiste-vanmour 

Eugène Delacroix, Death of Sardanapalus (1827): https://www.louvre.fr/en/oeuvre-notices/death-sardanapalus 

Ivan Mosjoukine, National Portrait Gallery, London: https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/person/mp147007/ivan-mosjoukine 

Gert Stienissen, ‘The original Kuleshov experiment’ (2011): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5JTX2DD4qTQ

Le Lion des Mogols

126: Le Lion des Mogols

We talk about Alison Ellwood’s documentary about The Go-Go’s and the band members’ fabulous clothes, hair and make-up. See links below.

Alison Ellwood (director), The Go-Go’s (2020): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt11394468/ 

The Go-Go’s (2020) Official Trailer, Showtime Documentary Film (1 July 2020): https://youtu.be/GsiRfL11I08

Variety, ‘The Go-Go’s dive into their history in new documentary at Sundance’ (28 January 2020): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cHS5gdKSUcY 

Keaton Bell, ‘How the Go-Go’s Found Their Beat: An Oral History’, Vogue (4 August 2020): https://www.vogue.com/article/go-gos-40th-anniversary-beauty-and-the-beat-oral-history-belinda-carlisle 

The Go-Go’s – We Got The Beat: https://youtu.be/f55KlPe81Yw

The Go-Go’s – Vacation: https://youtu.be/2RHTiXvELNg 

The Go-Go’s – Turn To You: https://youtu.be/gc-WHZ0AH50 

The Go-Go’s – Our Lips Are Sealed: https://youtu.be/r3kQlzOi27M 

Fun Boy Three, Our Lips Are Sealed (1983, uploaded 13 July 2017): https://youtu.be/QhVhK-VVeXo 

John Waters (director), Van Smith (costume design), Christine Mason (key hair stylist), Hairspray (1988): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0095270/ 

‘Automatic Mascara’, cosmetics and skin: https://www.cosmeticsandskin.com/ded/automatic-mascara.php

129: The Go-Go's

129: The Go - Go's

Rebecca Arnold & Beatrice Behlen discuss fashion - listen to our personal fashion views in our weekly catch up calls.  Rebecca is a fashion historian, Beatrice is curator at the Museum of London.

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