Learn a proven and effective approach to off-season training, broken down for beginner-, intermediate-, and advanced/pro-level climbers. Eric discusses how to handle nagging injuries, refresh motivation, and develop an winter-season training strategy to climbing your hardest next year! Podcast Rundown 1:00 - Podcast introduction including a discussion of new projects and my T4C YouTube channel. 2:00 - Brief intro to Jerry Moffatt's MasterMind...the best-selling&nbsp;Gimme Kraft, and Claudia Ziegler's "The Young Savages" book (featuring Adam Ondra, Shauna Coxsey, and more!) 5:50 - T4C Raffle! Eric&nbsp;explains how you can win a free copy of The Young Savages or a signed copy of Training For Climbing (3rd edition) 7:43 - Introduction to...End-of-season &amp; off-season training strategy. 11:40 - Step #1: Take 2 weeks off from training and climbing, then evaluate your physical health. If still experiencing any joint or muscles pain, then get it resolved--see a doctor or physio. Do NOT try to "climb through" your injury! Learn how to "train around" it. 19:40 - Step #2: Begin an intelligent, well-designed and executed off-season training program that addresses&nbsp;technical &amp; mental&nbsp;weaknesses and physical constraints. Program recommendations will be served up for beginner, intermediate and advanced-level climbers. 22:08 - The best off-season training approach for beginner climbers is.... 27:52 - Eric explains his "training target" analogy. 28:15 - Intermediate program recommendations 37:00 - The importance of training the rotator cuff and scapular stabilizer muscles--not just for injured climbers! 38:06 - Learn how the brain acts as a governor limiting your grip strength in body positions that severely stress the shoulder joint. Yes, a stronger rotator cuff = stronger fingers! Specific exercise guidelines are found in chapter 6 of Training for Climbing. 41:32 - Advanced/Pro-level off-season training tips. Physical testing and expert coaching is essential to hit the bull's eye of your training target--vital for opening up the next grade. 48:00 - Importance of seeing the big picture (and mission), while nailing the critical training details (the bull's eye!). 49:10 - Warning about training too much, thus exceeding your recovery ability...and getting lackluster results...and risking injury. 51:30 - Wrap up and closing comments. Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Follow Eric on Facebook! Music by: Misty Murphy

Podcast #18: Winter/Off-Season Training Strategy

I hope you’ll find this New Year’s podcast informative, thought-provoking, and mobilizing! After all, uncommon success comes to people who have big dreams, a clear vision and plan, and a bias for action—these are the keys to success in the climbing world…and the everyday world! In this podcast I serve up 5 generalized tips for improving your training and climbing-related activities to perform better and achieve more in 2018. Towards the end of the podcast I also serve up 5 tips becoming more productive, positive, and happy in all you do in the days and years ahead. New Years is a great time to re-engineer yourself, redefine your personal mission and goals, and to change habits and your personal MO to become more effective in all you do. Let’s get started! Podcast Rundown 1:00 - Introduction to “10 tips for the New Year” podcast….and the importance of having a bias for action. 2:00 – Strive to distinguish between high- and low-value activities. Which dominate your time? 3:20 – Key point: When “good enough” is good enough….and when “good enough” equals shitty! 5:20 – This New Years…step back and see the big picture of your life: What’s your primary mission? 6:00 – Develop a strategy…set goals and make a plan of action. 6:45 – Key point: Happiness comes from making progress in important activities or areas of your life (not from things). 7:30 – Surround yourself with likeminded goal-oriented, action-oriented individuals; avoid complainers and naysayers. 8:00 – Overview of the two main parts of this podcast: PART 1.) 5 tips for more effective training for climbing in the New Year. These tips will be rather generalized—listen to the previous podcast (#18) for specific programming guidelines for your ability. PART 2.) 5 tips to improve your personal effectiveness—how to get more important things done with each minute and hour of every day. 10:30 – Details on book raffle (on January 16th)…learn how to enter. Email a snapshot of your iTunes or Amazon book review to: Horst@TrainingForClimbing.com 12:00 – Part 1: 5 global (big picture) tips for improving the effectiveness of your training—and to become a better climber—in the New Years. Importance of setting process goals (resolutions) for achieving your outcome goals. 14:00 – Tip 1: Climb more often. Becoming a better climber starts here! 17:12 – Tip 2: Train to get stronger. Critical for achieving the higher grades! 24:40 – Tip 3: Do some “smart” endurance training. Key point: Simply climbing until you get pumped, it’s an effective long-term endurance-training strategy. Learn about the continuum of endurance types (and training strategies). 38:20 – Tip 4: Dial in your dietary and recovery habits. Small changes in these areas, integrated over days/weeks/months, can make a majority difference in the climbing performance. Learn how! 48:18 – Tip 5: Commit to twice-weekly antagonist &amp; stabilizer muscle training….which will improve your climbing posture, support more efficient movement, reduce injury risk, and perhaps even feedback to give you a stronger grip! What about free weight training? Learn the best approach to add a few supplement lifts without adding unwanted muscle mass. 55:35 – Closing tips for more effective living in the New Year. Here are 5 tips—or habits to change and/or develop--to get more important things done each day, improve your personal effectiveness, increase the rate of progress toward your goals, and experience more happiness day in and day out! Consider adopting a few of these as your New Year’s Resolutions! 58:20 – Resolution #1: TURN OFF notifications on your smartphone—these will rob you of deep concentration and the important flow state….and steal your effectiveness and your destiny! Don’t be a slave to your phone—be its master. 1:01:45 – Resolution #2: Limit time spent on low-value entertainment and “time killing” activities like surfing the Internet,...

Podcast #19: Tips to Improve Your Training, Productivitiy, & Performance in the New Year!

Training & performance podcast by Eric Hörst, internationally renowned author, researcher, climbing coach, and veteran climber. Learn the best methods to improve strength, power, endurance, as well as mental and technical skills. Eric is one of the world’s most knowledge climbing coaches, and he will share the science & secrets for training more effectively and climbing harder!

Learn more at: http://www.trainingforclimbing.com

Eric Hörst's Training for Climbing podcast