We talk about Rebecca’s visit to the wonderful ‘Drawing on Style’ fashion illustration exhibition curated by Gray M.C.A. at Cromwell Place in London. See links below.

And ... we are now on Patreon! Have a look at our page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast 


‘Drawing on Style’, hosted by Gray M.C.A, Wing Gallery (16 – 26 September 2021):
https://cromwellplace.com/whats-on/drawing-on-style 

Gray M.C.A., Bath: https://graymca.com/ 

Poppy Waddilove: https://poppywaddilove.com/

Frida Wannerberger: https://www.fridawannerberger.com/ 

Richard Haines: https://www.instagram.com/richard_haines/ 

Victoria Thorne: https://www.instagram.com/victoriathorne/ 

Jimmie Henslee: https://www.instagram.com/hensleejimmie/ 

L Gazette du Bon Ton and other French fashion magazines: https://gallica.bnf.fr/html/und/presse-et-revues/presse-de-mode?mode=desktop 

ProQuest Historical Newspapers – Black Newspapers: https://about.proquest.com/en/products-services/histnews-bn/

The Afro Archives: https://www.afro.com/archives/ 

Alison Toplis, ‘The Hidden History of the Smock Frock’, Bloomsbury (2021): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/the-hidden-history-of-the-smock-frock-9781350126114/

Bande à part

145: Drawing On Style

We talk about the Brixton films of Clovis Salmon, aka Sam the Wheels, celebrated at a recent event which included a filmed portrait of ‘Super Sam’ by Sandi Hudson-Francis. See links below.

And ... we are on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast 


Sam The Wheels – Local Brixton films 1960-2008: https://www.samthewheels.co.uk/ 

‘Jesus Saves’ film at Mutiny Arts: http://www.mutinyarts.co.uk/jesussaves

‘”I went wherever there was fighting”: how Sam the Wheels filmed Brixton ablaze’, The Guardian (4 October 2021): https://www.theguardian.com/film/2021/oct/04/everything-burn-sam-wheels-filmed-brixton-ablaze-uprisings-black-britain-clovis-salmon 

Sandi Hudson-Francis (director), ‘Super Sam’ (2021): https://www.sandihudsonfrancis.com/film/super-sam-trailer 

198 Contemporary Arts & Learning: https://www.198.org.uk/ 

‘Sam the Wheels - The Great Conflict, Brixton Riots & other films (24 February – 22 April 2017): https://autograph.org.uk/exhibitions/the-great-conflict-brixton-riots-other-films 

‘Sam the Wheels’, The Anthill Social: 
http://theanthillsocial.co.uk/archive/samthewheels/ 

Carol Tulloch, ‘The Birth of Cool: Style Narratives and the African Diaspora’, Bloomsbury (2016): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/birth-of-cool-9781474262873/

147: Sam The Wheels

We talk about the fascinating photographs of Namsa Leuba and what we learned from her recent online conversation with Nomusa Makhubu, organised by London’s Photographers’ Gallery. See links below.

http://www.namsaleuba.com/ 

Artist Talk: Namsa Leuba, Photographers’ Gallery, London (12 October 2021): https://thephotographersgallery.org.uk/whats-on/artist-talk-namsa-leuba 

Miss Rosen, ‘Namsa Leuba’s kaleidoscopic photographs explore the politics of the gaze’, Dazed (13 October 2021): https://www.dazeddigital.com/art-photography/article/54348/1/namsa-leuba-kaleidoscopic-photographs-explore-politics-of-the-gaze-crossed-looks 

Namsa Leuba, ‘Crossed Looks’, Halsey Institute of Contemporary Art at The College of Charleston (27 August – 11 December 2021): https://halsey.cofc.edu/main-exhibitions/crossed-looks/ 

Helen Jennings, ‘Namsa Leuba’, Nataal (2016): https://nataal.com/namsa-leuba 

Esther Mahlangu, South African History Online (2015/2021): https://www.sahistory.org.za/people/esther-mahlangu

148: Namsa Leuba

We talk about the V&A’s fantastical exhibition ‘Alice: Curiouser and Curiouser’ about the influence of Lewis Carroll’s novel ‘Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland’. See links below.

‘Alice: Curiouser and Curiouser’, Victoria & Albert Museum, London (to 31 December 2021); https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/alice-curiouser-and-curiouser 

Jonathan Jones, ‘Alice: Curiouser and Curiouser review – a wonderful tumble down the rabbit hole’, The Guardian (18 May 2021): https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2021/may/18/alice-curiouser-and-curiouser-victoria-and-albert-museum-london 

Claire Marie Healy, ‘How Alice in Wonderland Became Visual Culture’s Proto-Teenage Girl’, AnOther (21 May 2021): https://www.anothermag.com/design-living/13338/how-alice-in-wonderland-became-visual-culture-s-proto-teenage-girl 

Tim Spears, ‘alice: curiouser and curiouser preview in wonderland at V&A museum, london’, designboom (21 May 2021): https://www.designboom.com/art/alice-curiouser-and-curiouser-exhibition-preview-va-museum-london-05-21-2021/ 

Jonathan Miller (director), Kenneth Morey (costume design), ‘Alice in Wonderland’ (1966): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0060089/ 

Laird Borrelli-Persson, ‘“Alice in Wonderland” Shoot With Annie Leibovitz and Grace Coddington, on Episode 6 of In Vogue: The 2000s’ (12 October 2021): https://www.vogue.com/article/in-vogue-the-2000s-podcast-episode-6 

Laura Connelly, ‘Tim Walker inspired by Alice in Wonderland for Pirelli Calendar's 45th edition’, Creative Boom (22 November 2017): https://www.creativeboom.com/inspiration/tim-walker-inspired-by-alice-in-wonderland-for-pirelli-calendars-45th-edition/

149: Alice in Wonderland

In our Halloween Special, we learn how magic and fashion combine in Anna Biller’s fabulous technicolour extravaganza ‘The Love Witch’. See links below.

Anna Biller: https://www.lifeofastar.com/index.html 

Anna Biller (director and much else), ‘The Love Witch’ (2016): https://www.lifeofastar.com/lovewitch.html and https://www.imdb.com/title/tt3908142/ 

‘#8 - Anna Biller, Filmmaker of “The Love Witch”, a conversation with Pam Grossman of The Witch Wave (31 January 2018): https://witchwavepodcast.com/episodes/2018/1/31/anna-biller-filmmaker-of-the-love-witch 

Emma Willis (key makeup artist): https://www.instagram.com/emmawillishmu/ 

Jester Puppet: Barry Morse https://www.instagram.com/barry_morse_artist/

Jacques Demy (director), Gitt Magrini (costume design), ‘Peau d’âne’ (1970): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0066207/ 

Laird Borrelli-Persson, ‘The Secret Life of the Arrow Collar Man, an Early 20th-Century Sex Symbol’, Vogue (12 June 2017): https://www.vogue.com/article/pride-2017-leyendecker-arrow-collar-man-sex-symbol 

Rains: https://www.uk.rains.com/collections/bags

150: Love Witch

We talk about the amazing costume designer Sandy Powell who recently talked about her work at the Victoria & Albert Museum. See links below.

We’d also love you to check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast 

You Must Remember This, ‘Gossip Girls: Louella Parsons and Hedda Hopper (The Queer, Female Film Producer You’ve Never Heard Of, Episode 5)’, (31 May 2021): http://www.youmustrememberthispodcast.com/episodes/2021/5/5/gossip-girls-queer-film-producer-5 

Walter Lang (director), Travis Banton (Miss Lombard’s gowns), Brymer (other gowns), ‘Love Before Breakfast’ (1936): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0027908/ 

Gregory La Cava (director), Travis Banton (Miss Lombard’s gowns), Brymer (other gowns), ‘My Man Godfrey’ (1936): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0028010/ 

Richard Dyer, ‘White’, Routledge (2017, first published 1997): https://www.routledge.com/White-Twentieth-Anniversary-Edition/Dyer/p/book/9781138683044 

Past event: ‘Online Talk: Sandy Powell in Conversation’, Victoria & Albert Museum (7 November 2021): https://www.vam.ac.uk/event/awz4mQnapkN/online-talk-sandy-powell-in-conversation 

Sandy Powell: https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0694309/ 

Sandy Powell’s Autograph Suit auctioned at Phillips in 2020: https://www.phillips.com/detail/sandy-powell/UK090320/1 

The Female Lead: https://www.thefemalelead.com/about-us 

Piere Bourdieu, Yvette Delsaut, ‘Le couturier et sa griffe: contribution à une théorie de la magie’, Actes de la Recherche en Siences Sociales (1-1, 1975): https://www.persee.fr/doc/arss_0335-5322_1975_num_1_1_2447 

Colleen Kelsey, ‘Fashioning Sandy Powell’, Interview (18 February 2016): https://www.interviewmagazine.com/film/sandy-powell 

‘Behind the Seams: An interview with Sandy Powell’, podcast episode (7 June 2020): https://www.angelsbehindtheseams.com/podcast/episode0010/ 

‘Emily Blunt on the costumes of “Mary Poppins Returns”’, Variety Artisans (20 December 2018): https://youtu.be/BiYgPfpjSCk 

Julie Miller, ‘How Sandy Powell, Oscar-Winning Costume Designer, Ventured Outside Her Comfort Zone’, Vanity Fair (6 November 2017): https://www.vanityfair.com/hollywood/2017/11/wonderstruck-sandy-powell 

‘The Rake’s Progress: An Introduction’, Glyndebourne (23 August 2010) – shows David Hockney’s designs: https://youtu.be/DxeeWlp4AZ8 

Alex Marshall, ‘Lindsay Kemp, Dancer Who Taught David Bowie, Is Dead at 80’, New York Times (29 August 2018): https://www.nytimes.com/2018/08/29/obituaries/lindsay-kemp-dead.html 

‘Lindsay Kemp Dies at 80’, Gramilano (25 August 2018): https://www.gramilano.com/2018/08/lindsay-kemp-dies-at-80/ 

Kazuo Ono, ‘The Dead Sea’ (1980s): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZUjhQLB0hXY

153: Sandy Powell

We are catching a glimpse of life behind the scenes at Maison Drécoll in Paris in Tony Lekain’s 1923 film ‘On demande un mannequin’. See links below.

Please check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast 

Tony Lekain (director), ‘On demande un mannequin’ (1923): https://www.cinematheque.fr/henri/film/103077-on-demande-un-mannequin-tony-lekain-1923/ and https://www.imdb.com/title/tt16102410/ 

Didier Chappet, ‘Casque d’Or et les Apaches’ (8 January 2018): https://gallica.bnf.fr/blog/08012018/casque-dor-et-les-apaches?mode=desktop 

‘Cinémode par Jean Paul Gaultier’, Cinémathèque Française (6 October 2021 – January 2022): https://www.cinematheque.fr/cycle/exposition-cinemode-par-jean-paul-611.html 

Birgit Haase and Adelheid Rasche, ‘Christoph Drecoll: Rediscovering the Viennese Worth’, Costume, Volume 53, Issue 2 (2019): https://www.euppublishing.com/doi/full/10.3366/cost.2019.0120 

Images of Maison Drecoll: https://bibliotheques-specialisees.paris.fr/ark:/73873/pf0001614300.locale and https://bibliotheques-specialisees.paris.fr/ark:/73873/pf0001680232.locale and https://bibliotheques-specialisees.paris.fr/ark:/73873/pf0001615180.locale

Julien Duvivier (director), Gerlaur / Marthe Pinchaud (costume design), Au Bonheur des Dames (1930): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0020656/ 

John Julius Norwich (ed), The Duff Cooper Diaries: 1915-1951, Weidenfeld & Nicholson (2006): https://www.weidenfeldandnicolson.co.uk/titles/john-julius-norwich/the-duff-cooper-diaries/9780753821053/ 

Hebe (née Constance Irene Vesselier, later Mrs Kingsland): https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/person/mp123322/hebe-ne-constance-irene-vesselier-later-mrs-kingsland

Eve And Everybody’s Film Review: http://bufvc.ac.uk/newsonscreen/search/index.php/series/80 

Jenny Hammerton, ‘For Ladies Only? Eve’s Film Review: Pathe Cinemagazine 1921-33’, Projection Box (2001)

Perspex Samples: https://www.hindleys.com/perspex-samples.html 

Christmas Trees, Cox & Cox: https://www.coxandcox.co.uk/christmas/christmas-trees/

154: Mannequin

We discuss our beloved Jean Paul Gaultier’s obsession with the 1945 film ‘Falbalas’ and why it led him into fashion design. See links below.

Don’t forget to check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast

The Courtauld Gallery: https://courtauld.ac.uk/gallery/

Mitchell Leisen (director), Travis Banton (costumes), 'Hands Across the Table' (1935): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0026452/

‘Dialogue avec Jean Paul Gaultier’, Cinémathèque Française (6 October 2021 – 16 January 2022): https://www.cinematheque.fr/video/1711.html 

Jean Paul Gaultier, Last Couture Show, Théâtre du Châtelet, Paris, 22 January 2020, NOWFASHION (uploaded 24 January 2020): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYDyi-B1FuU 

Jacques Becker (director), Marcel Rochas (gowns), Falbalas (1945): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0035853/ 

Paul Devine, ‘Jacques Becker’s Falbalas getting Blu-Ray Release’, The Peoples Movies (27 September 2021): https://thepeoplesmovies.com/2021/09/jacques-beckers-falbalas-getting-blu-ray-release/ 

See also our previous episode (132) about Falbalas: https://soundcloud.com/bande-a-part-rb/132-falbalas

155: Gaultier's Falbalas

We delve into Jacques Demy’s weird, psychedelic fairy story ‘Peau d’âne’ (1970) and wonder about its many meanings. See links below.

Don’t forget to check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast

Jacques Demy (director), Agostino Pace (costume design), Gitt Magrini (costume realisation), Peau d’âne (1970): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0066207/ 

Charles Perrault, ‘Donkey Skin’, from: Charles Perrault, ‘Old-Time Stories told by Master Charles Perrault’, translated by A. E. Johnson, New York: Dodd Mead and Company (1921): https://sites.pitt.edu/~dash/perrault11.html 

Charles Perrault, ‘Contes des fees ...’ (1817): https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k6214877h/f181.item and https://gallica.bnf.fr/ark:/12148/bpt6k6214877h/f206.item 

Célia Bellache, ‘Les costumes et décors de Peau d’Âne de Jacques Demy’, Florilèges (2 January 2021): https://florilegeswebjournal.com/2021/01/02/les-costumes-et-decors-de-peau-dane-de-jacques-demy/ 

Rodney Hill, ‘Donkey Skin (Peau d’âne)’, Film Quarterly, 59/2 (Winter 2005/2006): https://doi.org/10.1525/fq.2005.59.2.40

Anne E. Duggan, ‘The Camping of “Donkey Skin”: Jacques Demy’s Cinematic Re-Vision of a Classic Tale’, in: Queer Enchantments: Gender Sexuality, and Class in the Fairy-Tale Cinema of Jacques Demy, Wayne State University Press (2013)

Natalie Olah, ‘Jim Leon’, Dazed (28 October 2012): https://www.dazeddigital.com/artsandculture/article/14960/1/jim-leon 

Videos relating to the filming of Peau d’âne: https://www.cinematheque.fr/zooms/demy/en/toutes_les_videos.php 

Anna Biller: https://www.lifeofastar.com/index.html 

Anna Biller (director and much else), ‘The Love Witch’ (2016): https://www.lifeofastar.com/lovewitch.html and https://www.imdb.com/title/tt3908142/ 

Taking care of your Lederhosen: https://www.spieth-wensky.de/trachtentrends/lederhosenhandbuch/

156: Peau d'âne

We talk about Lucy Moyse Ferreira’s fascinating, recently launched book ‘Danger in the Path of Chic: Violence in Fashion between the Wars’. See links below.

Don’t forget to check out Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast

Robin Givhan, ‘André Leon Talley became an icon by never losing faith in the glory of fashion’, Washington Post (19 January 2022): https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/2022/01/19/andre-leon-talley-appreciation/

André Leon Talley, ‘A.L.T.: A Memoir’ (Villlard 2003)

André Leon Talley, ‘The Chiffon Trenches: A Memoir’, read by ATM (Penguin Random House 2020): https://www.penguinrandomhouseaudio.com/book/609773/the-chiffon-trenches/ 

‘Helen Levitt: In the Street’, The Photographers’ Gallery, London (15 October 2021 – 13 February 2022): https://thephotographersgallery.org.uk/whats-on/helen-levitt-retrospective 

Lucy Moyse Ferreira, ‘Danger in the Path of Chic: Violence in Fashion between the Wars’ (Bloomsbury Publishing 2021): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/danger-in-the-path-of-chic-9781350126282/

Lucy Moyse Ferreira: https://www.arts.ac.uk/research/ual-staff-researchers/lucy-moyse-ferreira

157: Danger in the Path of Chic

We talk about London’s Fashion & Textile Museum’s exhibition: ‘Beautiful People: The Boutique in 1960s Counterculture’. See links below.

Don’t forget to check out Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast

The Courtauld Gallery, London: https://courtauld.ac.uk/gallery/ 

‘Beautiful People: The Boutique in 1960s Counterculture’, Fashion & Textile Museum, London (1 October 2021 - 13 March 2022): https://fashiontextilemuseum.org/exhibitions/beautiful-people-the-boutique-in-1960s-counterculture 

Mark Butterfield, ‘Granny Takes A Trip, Golden Lily Jacket, 1966’, C20 Vintage Fashion (20 September 2020): https://www.c20vintagefashion.co.uk/post/granny-takes-a-trip-golden-lily-jacket-1966 and other posts: https://www.c20vintagefashion.co.uk/blog 

The Peter Feely Experience, Perfumed Garden Productions, YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDZKLKwxbpv1vc9lfBO0kAw/featured 

Malcolm Hall: http://malcolmhall.london/gallery/#category_id_48 

Paul Reeves: https://www.instagram.com/paul_reeves_london/ 

Marisa Martin: https://www.marisamartin.com/tutors.html 

Raphael Samuel, ‘Theatres of Memory: Past and Present in Contemporary Culture’, Verso (first published 1994): https://www.versobooks.com/books/1098-theatres-of-memory

158: Beautiful People

We talk about Nadya Wang’s brilliant analysis of the work of photographer Yip Cheong Fun and the amazing style of Cab Calloway and the Nicholas Brothers. See links below.

Nadya Wang, ‘Framing the Body: Yip Cheong Fun and Singapore Photography in the 1960s and 1970s’, part of ‘Addressing Images, The Courtauld (28 January 2022): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0grnWoBZXok 

Fred Waller (director), Cab Calloway’s Hi-De-Ho (1933): https://www.parkcircus.com/film/109262-Cab-Calloway's-Hi-De-Ho and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=spBLdH5mtyk  

Fred Waller (director), Jitterbug Party (1934): https://www.parkcircus.com/film/109355-Jitterbug-Party and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mMQVZYoNWIw 

Billy Wilder (director), Some Like It Hot (1959): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0053291/ 

Andrew L. Stone (director), Helen Rose (costume design), Stormy Weather (1943): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0036391/ 

Clip from Stormy Weather (1943): https://cabcallowayfoundation.org/cab-calloway-bill-robinson-nicholas-brothers-stormy-weather/ 

Cab Calloway at the Smithsonian: https://www.si.edu/search/collection-images?edan_local=&edan_q=cab%2Bcalloway& 

Cab Calloway on the Zoot Suit, Docs & Interviews on MV (20 March 1986): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-3JuVFJrY8 

Dave Fleischer (director), Willard Bowsky and Ralph Somerville (animators), Betty Boob - Minnie The Moocher (1932): https://youtu.be/N7VUU_VPI1E

159: Cab Calloway

We talk about the powerful and moving Second World War and Holocaust Galleries at the Imperial War Museum. See links below.

Imperial War Museum, London: https://www.iwm.org.uk/visits/iwm-london 
Second World War Galleries: https://www.iwm.org.uk/events/second-world-war-galleries
The Holocaust Galleries: https://www.iwm.org.uk/events/the-holocaust-galleries 
https://www.iwm.org.uk/support-us/donations/second-world-war-and-holocaust-galleries 

Jonathan Freedland, ‘Imperial War Museum Holocaust Galleries review – history’s greatest horror’, The Guardian (11 October 2021): https://www.theguardian.com/culture/2021/oct/11/imperial-war-museum-london-holocaust-gallery-review 

‘The Holocaust Galleries - Imperial War Museum, London’, Casson Mann (2021): https://www.cassonmann.com/projects/holocaust-galleries 

Vikki Hawkins, ‘Displaying marginalised and “hidden” histories at the Imperial War Museum London: The Second World War gallery regeneration project’, War & Society, Volume 39, Issue 3 (2020): https://doi.org/10.1080/07292473.2020.1786895 

Museum of London: https://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/west-smithfield/relocation-west-smithfield

160: Museum and Memory

160: Museums and Memory

We talk about the fabulous Gladys Perint Palmer whose fashion drawings were shown in an exhibition curated by Gray MCA. See links below.

‘A fine Line in Fashion: The Art of Gladys Perint Palmer’, Gray MCA, Cromwell Place, London (15-20 February 2022): https://graymca.com/ 

Gray MCA, ‘In the Studio with Gladys Perint Palmer’ (11 September 2021): https://vimeo.com/602673726  

Gladys Perint Palmer: https://gladysperintpalmer.com/ 

Paris in Love (2021): https://youtu.be/CUS8XatG1HY 

The Courtauld, Prints and Drawings: https://courtauld.ac.uk/gallery/the-collection/prints-and-drawings/ 

Charles Baudelaire, ‘The Painter of Modern Life’ (originally published in 1863):
https://www.poetryintranslation.com/PITBR/French/BaudelaireThePainterOfModernLife.php

160: Gladys Perint Palmer

161: Gladys Perint Palmer

While we take a little mid season break let’s revisit our 100th episode about the fabulous clothes and make-up in Powell and Pressburger’s 1948 film ‘The Red Shoes’. See links below.

Michael Powell and Emeric Pressburger (directors), Hein Heckroth (costume design), The Red Shoes (1948): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0040725/

Wardrobe and dresses of Ludmilla Tchérina: Dorothy Edwards
Additional dresses for Ludmilla Tchérina: Carven
Dresses for Moira Shearer: Jacques Fath and Mattli
Make-up artists: George Blackler, Eric Carter, Ernest Gasser

Michael Powell, A Life in Movies: An Autobiography (1986): http://www.powell-pressburger.org/Reviews/Micky/ALIM.html

Hein Heckroth: Film Designer, Deutsches Film Institut, Filmmuseum, Berlin (28 March – 25 August 1991): https://www.dff.film/ausstellung/hein-heckroth-film-designer/ and http://www.shop-filmmuseum.de/Katalog-Hein-Heckroth-Film-Designer

Villa Léopolda: https://www.pop.culture.gouv.fr/notice/memoire/APGLT03800

Matthew Bourne, The Red Shoes: https://new-adventures.net/the-red-shoes#overview

Douglas Keeve (director), Unzipped (1995): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0114805/

162 (Repost): The Red Shoes

Beatrice takes Rebecca through every stage necessary in turning an item of clothing into a museum object.  See links below.

https://www.rotring.com/ 

Emily Spivack, ‘A History of Sequins from King Tut to the King of Pop’, Smithsonian Magazine (28 December 2012): https://www.smithsonianmag.com/arts-culture/a-history-of-sequins-from-king-tut-to-the-king-of-pop-8035/ 

Collections Trust, ‘Spectrum-related resources’: https://collectionstrust.org.uk/spectrum-resources/ 

Collections Trust ‘Standards in the museum care of costume and textile collections’: https://collectionstrust.org.uk/resource/standards-in-the-museum-care-of-costume-and-textile-collections/ 

Western Australian Museum, ‘Freezing Objects’ (30 June 2017): https://youtu.be/JSFmC6-K5nA 

Museum of London, ‘How to Store a Wedding Dress’ (16 September 2013): https://youtu.be/eHcQug5ZJd4

163: Behind the scenes at the museum

163: Museum behind the scenes

We talk about the joys of archival research and marvel at Mervyn Le Roy’s Depression-era musical ‘Gold Diggers of 1933’. 

Westminster Archives: https://www.westminster.gov.uk/leisure-libraries-and-community/westminster-archives 

Historical Directories of England and Wales: http://specialcollections.le.ac.uk/digital/collection/p16445coll4 and http://specialcollections.le.ac.uk/digital/collection/p16445coll4/custom/background 

Gaston and Andrée Exerciser: http://www.kraveantiques.co.uk/products/Gaston-Andree-Exerciser-1897.html 

Rogue Fitness, ‘The Rogue Legends Series – Chapter 1: Eugen Sandow / 8K’ (25 May 2017): https://youtu.be/S-nPD2__e0E 

Mervyn LeRoy (director), Orry-Kelly (gowns), ‘Gold Diggers of 1933’ (1933): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0024069/ 

Orry-Kelly, ‘Women I’ve Undressed: The Fabulous Life and Times of a Legendary Hollywood Designer’, Allen & Unwin (2016): https://atlantic-books.co.uk/book/women-ive-undressed/ 

Mordaunt Hall, ‘Warren William, Aline MacMahon and Guy Kibbee in a Musical Conception of “The Gold Diggers”’, New York Times (8 June 1933): https://timesmachine.nytimes.com/timesmachine/1933/06/08/105141704.html 

Library of Congress, Farm Security Administration/Office of War Information Black-and-White Negatives: https://www.loc.gov/collections/fsa-owi-black-and-white-negatives/about-this-collection/ 

Paul Dickson and Thomas B. Allen, ‘Marching on History’, Smithsonian Magazine (February 2003): https://www.smithsonianmag.com/history/marching-on-history-75797769/

164: Gold Diggers of 1933

In our season finale we discuss Ralph Lauren’s special edition Polo collection conceived in collaboration with Spelman and Morehouse colleges, and play another round of our favourite game 'If I was a …', this time focused on fashion illustration. New season premiere: 22 May. See links below.

Robin Givhan, ‘The Battle of Versailles’ (2015): https://us.macmillan.com/books/9781250052902/thebattleofversailles 

Robin Givhan, ‘Ralph Lauren revises his vision of the American Dream, inspired by the style of HBCUs’, The Washington Post (15 March 2022): https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/2022/03/15/ralph-lauren-morehouse-spelman-hbcu/ 

The Crisis, Modernist Journals Project: https://modjourn.org/journal/crisis/ 

https://www.instagram.com/anfeargorm4/ 

Bea Feitler after Joe Eula, ‘Lauren Bacall and the Boys’, 1968: https://www.si.edu/object/lauren-bacall-and-boys%3Anpg_NPG.2007.161 

Francesca Gavin, ‘The Pioneering Female Art Director You've Never Heard Of’, AnOther (8 September 2017): https://www.anothermag.com/art-photography/10134/the-pioneering-female-art-director-youve-never-heard-of 

Joe Eula (director), The Paris Collections: Fall Fashion Preview (1968): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt1596760/ 

‘Lauren Bacall: The Look’, FIT, New York (3 March 2015 – 4 April 2015): https://exhibitions.fitnyc.edu/lauren-bacall/exhibition/#grid-page 

Eric (Carl Erickson), Evening blouse, Hattie Carnegie, for Vogue (1943)

165: If I was a Fashion Illustration

We catch up with all that’s been happening - and discuss Ukrainian milliner Ruslan Baginskiy and Elizabeth Wilson’s new book 'Unfolding the Past'. See links below.

We’d love you to support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast


Unravelling Threads: Tracing and Transforming Violence and Trauma through Fashion, Conference, The Courtauld Institute / LCF (6-7 May 2022): https://courtauld.ac.uk/whats-on/unravelling-threads-tracing-and-transforming-violence-and-trauma-though-fashion/ 

Documenting Fashion Blog: https://sites.courtauld.ac.uk/documentingfashion/ 

Ruslan Blaginsky: https://www.instagram.com/ruslanbaginskiy_hats/ and https://ruslanbaginskiy.com/ 

Elizabeth Wilson, ‘Unfolding the Past’, Bloomsbury (2022): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/unfolding-the-past-9781350232617/ 

‘Dressed: 7 Women – 200 Years of Fashion’, MK&G, Hamburg (25 February – 28 August 2022): https://www.mkg-hamburg.de/en/exhibitions/dressed 

Charlie Porter,’What Artists Wear’, Penguin (2021): https://www.penguin.co.uk/books/314/314590/what-artists-wear/9780141991252.html

166: Catching Up

We discuss Jean Harlow’s amazing star persona, as seen in ‘Platinum Blonde’ and ‘Dinner at Eight’.  See links below.

We’d love you to support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast

Frank Capra (director), Edward Stevenson (costume design), ‘Platinum Blonde’ (1931): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0022268/ 

George Cukor (director), Adrian (gowns), ‘Dinner at Eight’ (1933): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0023948/ 

Robert Mack (director), ‘Come to Dinner’ (1934)
https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x7p71yv 

Richard Dyer, ‘White’ (2017, first published 1997): https://www.routledge.com/White-Twentieth-Anniversary-Edition/Dyer/p/book/9781138683044# 

George Hurrell, Jean Harlow (1934): https://lagunaartmuseum.org/artwork/jean-harlow/ 

Brassaï (Gyula Halász), La Môme Bijou, Bar de la Lune, Montmartre (1932) : https://www.moma.org/collection/works/58840 

RuPaul’s Drag Race’s 28 Days of Drag: 2/2 Snatch Game Sunday (2014): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LMA5MHvA3zA

167: Jean Harlow

We talk about an inspiring discussion between Priya Ahluwalia, Es Devlin and Gaika, chaired by Daze Aghaji about ‘creativity in a time of crisis’. See links below.

Please check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast

‘Imagining the Impossible: Creativity in a time of Crisis’, Barbican (16 June 2022): https://www.barbican.org.uk/whats-on/2022/event/imagining-the-impossible-creativity-in-a-time-of-crisis

Our Time on Earth, The Curve, Barbican (5 May - 29 Aug 2022): https://www.barbican.org.uk/whats-on/2022/event/our-time-on-earth

https://ahluwalia.world/

https://esdevlin.com/

https://gaika.warp.net/

https://www.instagram.com/dazeaghaji

168: Imagining the Impossible

We had to take a little break this week so are offering a repost of our musings about the allure of pleats, the history of pleating, and our favourite designer examples of pleats. See links below.

Please check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/bandeapartpodcast

Vogue, Sacai, Resort 2019: https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/resort-2019/sacai/slideshow/collection#34 

Lassner Plissee, History of Plissee (in German): http://lassner-plissee.de/Geschichte/geschichte.html 

Business of Fashion, 'Inside Chanel's Subsidiary, Lognon, Pleater' (2015): www.youtube.com/watch?v=h_GU0uOgNrc 

Refinery29, 'How a Dior Dress is Made' (2015): www.youtube.com/watch?v=FT1Fc92-eFY 

The Hunt Museum, Sybil Connolly, online exhibition (2018): www.huntmuseum.com/explore-the-exhibition/ 

Elizabeth Kutesko, 'How Can We Decolonise Fashion History? A Case Study: the Guarani-Kaiowá, Mato Grosso do Sul, Brazil', Research Forum, Courtauld Institute (8/2/2019): https://courtauld.ac.uk/whats-on/how-can-we-decolonise-fashion-history-a-case-study-the-guarani-kaiowa-mato-grosso-do-sul-brazil/ 

Elizabeth Kutesko, 'Fashioning Brazil
Globalization and the Representation of Brazilian Dress in National Geographic' (2018): www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashioning-b…-9781350026605/

169 (Repost): Pleats

We discuss Visible Mending and Unzipped, the 1995 documentary about Isaac Mizrahi by Douglas Keeve. See links below.

Visible Mending
https://humantextilewellness.wordpress.com/
http://celiapym.com/
https://tomofholland.com/
http://www.woolfiller.com/
http://www.addresspublications.com/mended-scars/
http://goldenjoinery.com/#workshop

Douglas Keeve (director), Unzipped (1995): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0114805/ and https://youtu.be/qNmJKsGylaY 

Ernst Lubitsch (director), I don’t want to be a man (1918): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0010281/ and https://youtu.be/bCmwaXkf8Xg

Charles Bryant (director), Natacha Rambova (costume design), Salomé (1923): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0013571/ and https://youtu.be/Pt0DSbnf7q8

Visible Mending & Unzipped

We discuss the costumes of The Deuce (HBO 2017).

The Deuce (2017)  http://www.imdb.com/title/tt4998350/
Anna Terrazas  hhttp://www.imdb.com/name/nm2607465/
Taxi Driver (1976)http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0075314/
The Panic in Needle Park (1971) http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0067549/
Katzelmacher (1969) http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0064536/

https://www.nytimes.com/2017/10/27/style/sex-worker-prostitute-fashion-the-deuce-blade-runner.html

https://fashionista.com/2017/09/hbo-the-deuce-costumes

Dissecting The Deuce

We discuss photographs of mock weddings and cross-dressing and the notorious 1973 ‘Battle of Versailles’ fashion show.

Under Cover: A Secret History of Cross-Dressers: https://thephotographersgallery.org.uk/whats-on/exhibition/under-cover-secret-history-cross-dressers 

Sebastien Lifshitz: http://sebastienlifshitz.com/

Bambi (Marie-Pierre Pruvot): https://www.bambi-officiel.com/tout-sur-bambi/

Versailles '73:  American Runway Revolution (2013): http://www.versailles73movie.com/

Review of Robin Ghivan, The Battle of Versailles (2015): https://www.nytimes.com/2015/05/03/books/review/the-battle-of-versailles-by-robin-givhan.html

Mock Weddings & The Battle Of Versailles

We discuss the beautiful exhibition at Alexander McQueen’s Old Bond Street store that shows the research and design process for the current collection. See links below.

Unlocking Stories (2019): https://www.alexandermcqueen.com/experience/en/unlocking-stories/

Hand & Lock: https://handembroidery.com/

Maison Lesage: http://www.lesage-paris.com/

Edwina Ehrman and Amy de la Haye, London Couture: British Luxury 1923-1975 (2015): https://www.vam.ac.uk/shop/london-couture-british-luxury-1923-1975-131549.html

Alexander McQueen

We discuss Charlie Curran’s beautiful film See Know Evil which documents the life of fashion photographer Davide Sorrenti. See links below.

Charlie Curran (director), See Know Evil (2018): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt8755156/ 

See Know Evil on Charlie Curran’s website: http://www.charliecurran.com/see-know-evil

See Know Evil IG: https://www.instagram.com/see_know_evil/ 

Charlie Curran IG: https://www.instagram.com/myhilism/ 

Rebecca Arnold, Fashion Desire and Anxiety (I.B. Tauris 2001): https://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/fashion-desire-and-anxiety-9780857718396/ 

Rebecca Arnold, ‘Heroin Chic’, Fashion Theory, Volume 3, Issue 3 (1999): https://doi.org/10.2752/136270499779151405 

Jake Hall, ‘Reframing the life and work of pioneering 90s photographer Davide Sorrenti’, Dazed (24 January 2019): https://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/43027/1/davide-sorrenti-90s-photographer-see-know-evil-film-charles-curran-heroin-chic 

James Cameron (director), Terminator 2: Judgement Day (1991): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0103064/ 

Louise Krasniewicz and Michael Blitz, The Intersexts of Linda Hamilton’s Arms (1996): http://chnm.gmu.edu/aq/arnold/arnoldwebpages/intersext.htm and https://www.academia.edu/11345036/The_Intersexts_of_Linda_Hamiltons_Arms_updated_with_references

See Know Evil

We discuss the wonderful exhibition of Finnish artist Helene Schjerfbeck’s work at the Royal Academy. See links below.

Helene Schjerfbeck, Royal Academy of Arts (20 July – 27 October 2019): https://www.royalacademy.org.uk/exhibition/helene-schjerfbeck

Helene Schjerfbeck, Schirn Kunsthallle Frankfurt (2 October 2014 – 11 January 2015): http://schirn.de/schjerfbeck/ (good introduction)

Tina Berning: https://www.instagram.com/tina_berning and https://tinaberning.de/

Helene Schjerfbeck

We revisit our favourite game - this time choosing the fashion photographs we would like to inhabit. See links below.

Nick Knight: https://www.nickknight.com/

Edward Steichen, Marion Morehouse, 1927: https://www.gettyimages.co.uk/detail/news-photo/model-marion-morehouse-standing-with-both-hands-on-her-hips-news-photo/507047690

Helmut Newton, Yves Saint-Laurent, Rue Aubriot, French Vogue, Paris (1975): https://www.christies.com/lotfinder/Lot/helmut-newton-19202004-yves-st-laurent-rue-6225247-details.aspx

Gordon Parks, Fath Show Stoppers, Paris 1951: http://www.gordonparksfoundation.org/about-gordon-parks/photography-archive/fashion-1948-61?view=slider#19

Gordon Parks on Google Arts & Culture: https://artsandculture.google.com/entity/m02t_dy

‘A Hectic Week of Paris Showings’, Life (5 March 1951): 
https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=0UsEAAAAMBAJ&lpg=PA102&dq=%22jacques%20fath%22&pg=PA105#v=onepage&q&f=false

Franz Xaver Winterhalter, Empress Eugénie Surrounded by her Ladies-in-Waiting (1855): https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Winterhalter_Franz_Xavier_The_Empress_Eugenie_Surrounded_by_her_Ladies_in_Waiting.jpg

Martin Munkacsi: Stephen Mooallem, ‘Astonish Me: The Making of Harper’s Bazaar’, Harper’s Bazaar (23 February 2017): https://www.harpersbazaar.com/culture/features/a20537/making-of-harpers-bazaar/

Anthony Gordon (photographer), Alex Arts (model), ‘Alex Works: Careering through the Eighties’, The Face No. 100, September 1988 on Paul Gorman Is: https://www.paulgormanis.com/?p=21154

If I Was A Fashion Photograph

We talk about the thoughtful documentary about Martin Margiela and our admiration for his wonderful work. See links below.

Reiner Holzemer (director), Martin Margiela: In His Own Words (2019): https://www.imdb.com/title/tt11284244/ and https://www.martinmargielafilm.co.uk/

Margiela, the Hermès Years, Momu, Antwerp (31 March 2017 – 27 August 2017): https://www.momu.be/en/exhibitions/new-entry-2

MARGIELA / GALLIERA, 1989-2009, Palais Galliera (3 March – 15 July 2018): http://www.palaisgalliera.paris.fr/en/exhibitions/margiela/galliera-1989-2009

Martin Margiela: In His Own Words

We discuss the V&A’s ‘Kimono: From Kyoto to Catwalk’ exhibition and the varied meanings of this fascinating garment. See links below.

Collina Strada: https://collinastrada.com/ 

Ian Kelly, Beau Brummell: The Ultimate Man of Style (2006): https://www.hodder.co.uk/titles/ian-kelly/beau-brummell/9780340836996/ 

Duro Olowu: https://www.duroolowu.com/ 

Arles – Les Rencontres de la Photographie: https://www.rencontres-arles.com/en 

Julien Faure: https://www.instagram.com/julienfaure1864/ 

Les choses de Paul Poiret / vues par Georges Lepape (1911): https://www.vmfa.museum/piction/108734640-160584885/ 

Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk, Victoria & Albert Museum (to 25 October 2020): https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/kimono-kyoto-to-catwalk 

Storey Studio (exhibition designers): https://www.storeystudio.com/project/va/kimono-kyoto-catwalk-exhibition 

Curator Tour led by Anna Jackson, Keeper of the Asian Department:
https://youtu.be/oEf0iFNTVGw
https://youtu.be/hG6UVZexmc8 
https://youtu.be/dvyC_pqYhvw 
https://youtu.be/oz1AzscxHjk
https://youtu.be/OSgNdkcg9To 

Netsuke & Inro, V&A: http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/n/netsuke-inro/ 

Sheila Cliffe, The Social Life of Kimono: Japanese Fashion Past and Present (Bloomsbury 2020): https://www.bloomsbury.com/us/the-social-life-of-kimono-9781350211186/ 

Jennifer Craik, The Face of Fashion (Routledge 2003): https://www.taylorfrancis.com/books/9780203409428 

Kimonos in the Khalili Collections: https://www.khalilicollections.org/all-collections/japanese-kimono/ 

Kitsuke: How to wear kimono (August 2017): https://youtu.be/gVdwYM75oLI 

Wasoukan, How to wear a kimono (September 2020): https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLZyw9a9Ouji03DOIT2SlTUyrDJbKP7hBL 

Ome Kimono Museum, Tokyo: http://www.omekimono.jp/

Kimono

We marvel at the costumes and puzzle over the plot line of Jean Epstein’s 1924 silent film ‘Le Lion des Mogols’. See links below.

Nike GO FlyEase: https://news.nike.com/news/nike-go-flyease-hands-free-shoe 

Cornercopia Store: https://cornercopiastore.co.uk/ 

Jean Epstein (director), Boris Bilinsky (costume design), The Lion of the Moguls (1924):
https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0191246/ 

Le Lion de Mogols on the Cinémathèque française website: https://www.cinematheque.fr/henri/film/48393-le-lion-des-mogols-jean-epstein-1924/ 

François Albera, Albatros: Des Russes à Paris, 1919-1929 (Cinémathèque française 1995): http://www.cineressources.net/consultationPdf/web/o000/592.pdf 

Samantha Leroy, Jean Epstein / Fiction / France / 1924 – Autour de Film: https://www.cinematheque.fr/catalogues/restaurations-tirages/film.php?id=48393#autour-du-film 

Michael Organ and René Clémenti-Bilinsky (compiled by), ‘Boris Bilinsky French Metropolis Posters & Montages 1927’ (2016): https://documents.uow.edu.au/~morgan/metrojc.htm 

Adrian Curry, ‘Movie Posters of the Week: “Metropolis” and the posters of Boris Bilinsky’, Mubi, Notebook Column (31 August 2013): https://mubi.com/notebook/posts/movie-poster-of-the-week-metropolis-and-the-posters-of-boris-bilinsky 

Jean Baptiste Vanmour at Rijks Museum, Amsterdam: https://www.rijksmuseum.nl/en/rijksstudio/artists/jean-baptiste-vanmour 

Eugène Delacroix, Death of Sardanapalus (1827): https://www.louvre.fr/en/oeuvre-notices/death-sardanapalus 

Ivan Mosjoukine, National Portrait Gallery, London: https://www.npg.org.uk/collections/search/person/mp147007/ivan-mosjoukine 

Gert Stienissen, ‘The original Kuleshov experiment’ (2011): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5JTX2DD4qTQ

Le Lion des Mogols

126: Le Lion des Mogols

Rebecca Arnold & Beatrice Behlen discuss fashion - listen to our personal fashion views in our weekly catch up calls.  Rebecca is a fashion historian, Beatrice is curator at the Museum of London.

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