The Sharp End

the sharp end podcasts

Mountaineering / Adventure

Sharp End

Ashley interviews Seth Adams, who fell into a crevasse in Alaska's Hayes Range last spring. Hear Seth describe this scary incident and what he learned about traveling Alaskan glaciers.

Here's a link to the report that will appear in Accidents 2016: http://bit.ly/20Cy2bV. And here's Seth's original account of the crevasse fall, republished at the Climbing Zine: http://bit.ly/1SUlqvl.



Ep 1 - The View from a Crevasse - Seth Adams

Blake Bowling aimed to redpoint 1,500 routes in Kentucky's Red River Gorge. The Madness, a 5.13 route at the Motherlode, would be number 1,499. When a friend came by his camper van and asked if Blake wanted to climb, he grabbed the rope he'd already used many times before while rehearsing the moves on the Madness. This time, however, using that rope would be a near-fatal mistake. 

Sharp End host Ashley Saupe interviewed Blake about his accident and the very simple steps he could have taken to prevent it. Blake and his belayer had 52 years of combined rock climbing experience, proving that experience is no guard against serious accidents. 

Blake's story and photos can be seen at the Accidents in North American Mountaineering website: http://bit.ly/1TrlGTB.

 

Ep 2 - A Rope Too Short - Blake Bowling

Eric Hengesbaugh had planned an expedition into the Palisades section of the High Sierra, with support from an AAC Live Your Dream grant. But a fall during his very first climb left him with a broken ankle and back injury, hundreds of feet above the ground. Amazingly, Eric captured the entire incident on a portable recorder. Afterward, he crafted a moving podcast telling the story of the accident and the people who rescued him.

In this special edition of the Sharp End, Ashley introduces Eric's story and then interviews him about the lessons learned. When you're done, you'll definitely want to hear Eric's full hour-long podcast, "Fall Risk," at this link: https://soundcloud.com/hengesbaugh/fall-risk.  

Ep 3 - Rescue in the Palisades - Eric Hengesbaugh

Mountaineering ranger Dave Weber describes a sobering incident in the Ruth Gorge of Alaska. Plus, Dave and Ashley discuss the realities of rescue missions and his thoughts on avoiding accidents in the mountains. 

Read the full story of this accident: http://bit.ly/1rGb1IU.

Ep 4 - Denali Ranger Dave Weber: A Day in the Life

We think of bolts as offering bomproof anchors and protection. But many of the bolts used by climbers today were placed at least 20 to 30 years ago, and they were never designed to be used by climbers in the first place. In 2015, a climber in California died when an old bolt failed under his body weight. In this episode, Ashley speaks with Jason Haas and Brady Robinson about bolt safety. Should climbers blindly trust bolts? And what are leaders in the climbing world doing about the problem of old bolts?

Ep 5 - Bomber Anchors or Ticking Time Bombs? - Jason Haas and Brady Robinson

Experienced mountaineers Jennifer Staufer and Adam Vonnahme were descending 14,294-foot Crestone Peak in Colorado when Jen slipped on an unexpected patch of ice and careened about 150 feet down the Red Gully, sustaining multiple injuries. Jen was 10 weeks pregnant at the time, adding to their fears. In this episode, Ashley chats with Jen and Adam about the climb and the dramatic nighttime rescue that followed.

This incicdent was documented in the 2016 edition of Accidents in North American Climbing: http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201214127.

Ep 16 - The Red Gully - Jennifer Staufer and Adam Vonnahme

By late April, Marcus Mazzaferri had already hiked nearly 1,000 miles of the Pacific Crest Trail. He was just about to stop for the day near Tuolumne Meadows, high in Yosemite National Park, when he came across a swollen creek and decided to cross it before setting up camp. What happened next left Marcus all alone, with no gear, 15 miles from the nearest road. His story will make you wonder: What would I have done?

The Sharp End is produced each month by Accidents in North American Climbing, an annual publication of the American Alpine Club, and is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Vertical Medicine Resources and Colorado Outward Bound School.

Ep 18 - Epic in Yosemite National Park - Marcus Mazzaferri

Ashley speaks with fellow Outward Bound instructors Matt Olsen and Ty Guarino, who survived a serious rappelling and rockfall accident during an attempt on the famous Grand Traverse of the Tetons. Hear about their impressive self-rescue and the lessons they learned.

The Sharp End is produced each month by Accidents in North American Climbing, an annual publication of the American Alpine Club, and is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Vertical Medicine Resources and Colorado Outward Bound School.

Ep 19 - Grand Traverse Gone Bad - Matt Olsen and Ty Guarino

Tyler Smoker and friends were out for an early season tour near Hatcher Pass, Alaska, in November. He let down his guard for a moment and took a terrifying ride. Ashley and Tyler use their deep knowledge of backcountry snow safety to discuss what mistakes were made.

The Sharp End is produced each month by Accidents in North American Climbing, an annual publication of the American Alpine Club, and is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Vertical Medicine Resources and Colorado Outward Bound School.

Ep 23 - Avalanche! - Tyler Smoker

Japhy Dhungana, a Nepal-born, Colorado-based climbing guide, aspired to lead Evictor, a notorious 5.12 climb at the Rincon Wall in Eldorado Canyon. After rehearsing the route on top-rope and practicing the critical gear placements, Japhy made a lead attempt at the end of the day last March. When he let go near the top, Japhy expected take a long but safe fall. But that's not what happened.

This episode of the Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Health IQ and the Colorado Outward Bound School.

Ep 24 - Ground Fall in Eldorado Canyon - Japhy Dhungana

Steve Smith was glissading down from Aasgard Pass, gateway to the Enchantments in Washington State, when he plunged into a deep hole caused by a waterfall of melting snow. This was a dangerous mistake: Several hikers and climbers have died falling into this same hole. Steve is now the climbing education manager for the Mountaineers and owner of Experiential Consulting, a risk-management consulting firm for outdoor programs. In this riveting episode, he shares the many lessons from that day on Aasgard Pass.

The Sharp End podcast is made possible by Mammut, Health IQ, and Colorado Outward Bound School, and is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Ep 25 - The Deadly Hole On Aasgard Pass - Steve Smith

In October 2017, well-known climber Quinn Brett fell over 100 feet while attempting a speed ascent of the Nose of El Capitan. She now lives with paralysis. For this very special episode of the Sharp End, Quinn spoke with Ashley about her climbing, the accident in Yosemite Valley, and the painful aftermath in front of a live audience at the American Alpine Club's Annual Benefit Dinner in February.

This episode of the Sharp End podcast was made possible by Mammut, Petzl, Health IQ, and Colorado Outward Bound School, and was produced by the American Alpine Club. Thanks to Chris Kalous for assistance in Boston and to Vince Schaefer / Cold House Media for photography.

Ep 26 - Live with Quinn Brett

Ryan Bowie, 34, was ice climbing with a friend in the remote backcountry near their home in Tumbler Ridge, British Columbia. When Ryan set up a rappel from the top of a vertical ice wall, the highly experienced climber made a series of bad judgments, resulting in a terrifying plunge that could have ended a lot worse. In this episode, Ryan reflects on what went wrong that day.

The Sharp End is presented by Mammut, with additional support from Colorado Outward Bound School and Health IQ. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Ep 27 - The Rushed Rappel - Ryan Bowie

A podcast produced/hosted by Ashley Saupe, sponsored by Rocky Talkie and supported by the American Alpine Institute. This podcast aims to minimize future outdoor accidents by way of story telling. Real people sharing real stories. 
"Play Hard and Be Smart"
www.thesharpendpodcast.com