Mountaineering

The Sharp End

the sharp end

Climbing

Ashley interviews Seth Adams, who fell into a crevasse in Alaska's Hayes Range last spring. Hear Seth describe this scary incident and what he learned about traveling Alaskan glaciers.

Here's a link to the report that will appear in Accidents 2016: http://bit.ly/20Cy2bV. And here's Seth's original account of the crevasse fall, republished at the Climbing Zine: http://bit.ly/1SUlqvl.



Ep 1 - The View from a Crevasse - Seth Adams

A Podcast about a group looking to follow a past relative's bold alpine ascents up obscure granite peaks. This story is about the adventure and misadventures that take place in the pursuit of a legend. 

--

Thank you!
After all this I would be remiss not to share the immense gratitude I have for everyone involved in the process. Words though are at a loss for how I truly feel. 
Peter: for being the first on the scene and for dealing with a screaming, swearing, twisted Eric with the utmost composure. 
Gabe: For arriving ready to take on the responsibility of the rescue. Knowing you were there let me relax and spend more energy on bad jokes ‘I’m a frayed knot’  
Brian: Even after an exhausting day emotionally and physically, I could sleep that night knowing you wouldn't until some one was roused to be with us by morning. 
Jas: For spending more time in the car than in the mountains so that Brian could join us. You are set the standard for what a good friend should be!
Kevin, Phoebe: Thank you both for being so willing to give up a long weekend in the mountains for a long weekend in the hospital. Thanks for hiking in a grabbing the gear we left behind. Thank you for your optimism and laughter. And thank you especially to the unicorns. 

A huge thank you to the Inyo County Search and Rescue team: Julie, Matt, Laura, Rachel, and Kyle. They even brought in some fresh baked cookies from the Big Basin Bakery! The whole time I felt physically and emotionally cared for. 

Thanks to the Inyo County Sheriff’s Department’s Depute Durr and helicopter Pilot Scott! Thanks to my friends and family in San Diego who helped in the early recover process. A special big thank you to Aunt Marty . . . and to everyone who has offered support in my recovery thank you. I have felt all of your love. 

--

Music by:
Free Music Archive.org
UP by Asthmatic Astronaut 
Pony / Springish by Gillicuddy
Cylinder Nine by Chris Zabriskie 

Your hand in Mine by Explosions in the Sky
How did I get here by Odesza 
The Wolf by Eddie Vedder

Fall Risk

Blake Bowling aimed to redpoint 1,500 routes in Kentucky's Red River Gorge. The Madness, a 5.13 route at the Motherlode, would be number 1,499. When a friend came by his camper van and asked if Blake wanted to climb, he grabbed the rope he'd already used many times before while rehearsing the moves on the Madness. This time, however, using that rope would be a near-fatal mistake. 

Sharp End host Ashley Saupe interviewed Blake about his accident and the very simple steps he could have taken to prevent it. Blake and his belayer had 52 years of combined rock climbing experience, proving that experience is no guard against serious accidents. 

Blake's story and photos can be seen at the Accidents in North American Mountaineering website: http://bit.ly/1TrlGTB.

 

Ep 2 - A Rope Too Short - Blake Bowling

Eric Hengesbaugh had planned an expedition into the Palisades section of the High Sierra, with support from an AAC Live Your Dream grant. But a fall during his very first climb left him with a broken ankle and back injury, hundreds of feet above the ground. Amazingly, Eric captured the entire incident on a portable recorder. Afterward, he crafted a moving podcast telling the story of the accident and the people who rescued him.

In this special edition of the Sharp End, Ashley introduces Eric's story and then interviews him about the lessons learned. When you're done, you'll definitely want to hear Eric's full hour-long podcast, "Fall Risk," at this link: https://soundcloud.com/hengesbaugh/fall-risk.  

Ep 3 - Rescue in the Palisades - Eric Hengesbaugh

Mountaineering ranger Dave Weber describes a sobering incident in the Ruth Gorge of Alaska. Plus, Dave and Ashley discuss the realities of rescue missions and his thoughts on avoiding accidents in the mountains. 

Read the full story of this accident: http://bit.ly/1rGb1IU.

Ep 4 - Denali Ranger Dave Weber: A Day in the Life

We think of bolts as offering bomproof anchors and protection. But many of the bolts used by climbers today were placed at least 20 to 30 years ago, and they were never designed to be used by climbers in the first place. In 2015, a climber in California died when an old bolt failed under his body weight. In this episode, Ashley speaks with Jason Haas and Brady Robinson about bolt safety. Should climbers blindly trust bolts? And what are leaders in the climbing world doing about the problem of old bolts?

Ep 5 - Bomber Anchors or Ticking Time Bombs? - Jason Haas and Brady Robinson

Nick Thurston and his climbing partner were surprised by a severe thunderstorm high on California's Bear Creek Spire. In this episode, Nick describes the lightning bolt that struck his partner and how they escaped without more serious injuries. Plus: Ashley suggests ways climbers can minimize their risk of lightning strikes when they are caught out.

Ep 6 - Caught In a Bad Place - Nick Thurston

A podcast produced/hosted by Ashley Saupe, sponsored by Rocky Talkie and supported by the American Alpine Institute. This podcast aims to minimize future outdoor accidents by way of story telling. Real people sharing real stories. 
"Play Hard and Be Smart"
www.thesharpendpodcast.com