"Back Door" neighborhood.  
     This colorful neighborhood across the river from downtown is the place to immerse yourself in the crustier side of Rome. On this half-mile walk through Trastevere, you'll stroll from the Tiber to the Church of Santa Maria discovering a secret, hidden city of heroic young martyrs, lovers kissing on Vespas, party-loving Renaissance bankers, and feisty "Trasteverini" — old-timers who pride themselves on never setting foot on the opposite bank of the Tiber River. Don't forget to download the handy PDF companion map. 
     Sightseeing nitty gritty: This walk can work well at any time of day. Mornings are cool and relatively quiet. Note that many churches are closed at midday and Villa Farnesina closes as early as 13:00 (and as late as 16:00). Strolling through Trastevere at dusk is especially atmospheric. Church of Saint Cecilia: Free, daily 9:30–12:30 and 16:00–18:30; crypt-€2.50; loft with frescoes-€2.50, Mon–Fri 10:15–12:15, Sat–Sun 11:15–12:15, ask the nuns to open the door. Church of Santa Maria in Trastevere: Free, daily 7:00–21:00. Villa Farnesina: €5; April–June and mid-Sept–Oct Mon–Sat 9:00–16:00, closed Sun; July–mid-Sept and Nov–March Mon–Sat 9:00–13:00, closed Sun. 
     Updated in 2023. Originally excerpted from Rick Steves' Rome 2010. Copyright 2009 Avalon Travel. Related travel information at www.ricksteves.com.

Rome: Trastevere Audio Tour - Audio Europe: Italy (Venice, Florence, Rome)

Nina Bernardo, a tour guide based in Rome, walks Rick through the ancient Roman city of Pompeii, frozen in time since the eruption of Mount Vesuvius nearly 2,000 years ago. Related travel information at www.ricksteves.com.

Rome: Trastevere Audio Tour - Audio Europe: Italy (Venice, Florence, Rome)

Rick Steves Audio Europe

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